Saturday 10/20/2012 from David, Panama

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

Friends!!
It’s wonderful how much a phone call can brighten your day! My first call ever on my cell phone was from Ryan, AKA Halfthrottle, the guy who makes YouTube videos of his motorcycle adventures in Panama. He has been in the US working so I was very surprised to hear from him and find out that he is here in town to see his wife. We are going to get together this afternoon. It will be great to see friends, and they can help me with some of my questions too.

I went to the park again yesterday afternoon for the internet. The connection wasn’t good and Joel and I could barely talk, so we ended up typing a lot but at least we could communicate a little. The park was pretty nuts, as usual. It’s crowded with people and there’s always noisy traffic around the perimeter. There was a musical performance going on too, so I went to the opposite side where it was a bit quieter. Green parrots were making a racket above me though. Four more days until internet at the house, not that I’m counting. I had a dream that they showed up on Monday.

I am not a solitary sort of person. I like some time to myself, of course, but not all day every day. I notice how much better I feel just going to Do-It center and saying hello to the saleslady who helped me, even if I don’t understand everything she says. I am looking forward to Lorraine, my traveling companion who will stay with me a few days when she returns (maybe tomorrow). And, I’m excited to see Ryan and Lidia this afternoon. Going to the park and being around people doesn’t quite do it for me but people I can talk to, friends, that feels really good. I’m staying away from coffee too, and I feel much better than I did that first day. It had to be the caffeine.

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Saturday 10/20/2012 from David, Panama

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

Getting by in the new neighborhood without internet

Ten days ago was the day I left Florida. Today is the second morning that I woke up in my own house in Panama. It still doesn’t seem quite real. In a way it feels like little has changed. I’m in a residential neighborhood. The neighbors do very typical things, drive in and out, holler across the street to friends, work on things in the yard, send the kids out to play. But, if you listen, you realize it’s all in Spanish, and you can’t identify any of the bird songs except the roosters.
I don’t have internet at the house yet. I see how much I am attached to the internet. It connects me with the people who are important to me. I connects me with so many things I take for granted. I can’t find my dictionary. I probably didn’t bring it because I can use on line translation. Find a business? Google, of course. My address book? On line. My family and friends? Facebook, email, skype. Last night I went to the park where they have free Wi-Fi provided by the government. I was happy to check email and call home. I was used to talking with Joel 2-3 times a day and this silence is the most difficult for me, especially now. I am in our house where we are supposed to be living together, but we are not together. I know this is the most useful thing to be doing at this time, but I will be glad when the solitary part is behind me.
But, little by little, I get by. I am very proud of myself because I called the cable/internet company and managed a successful conversation. Now I know they are coming on Thursday, and they have my correct phone number. Meanwhile, I will practice getting back and forth to the park.
I still feel tired. I suppose I should not be surprised under the circumstances! I must go to the park for the internet, but otherwise I don’t feel like doing much today. I’ll write, make some food, and paint some more. I definitely need to buckle down with the Spanish books.
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Friday 10/19/2012 from David, Panama

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham
Caffeine? Freaking out in Panama??
Pick up one thing and figure out what to do with it. Relax. Sit down. Write some more. Pick up one more thing and figure out what to do with it. Relax. Read a little. Everything is all right. Settle down. This is how my day is starting. I am feeling very anxious. Was it the 2 cups of coffee? I was fine before breakfast. Is it being out of touch with my husband and all the people who are important to me? Is it just being in a state of transition? Maybe it is all catching up with me? I think it is mostly the coffee. I know I don’t do well with caffeine. This is Panamanian coffee boiled in a pan since I don’t have a coffee maker yet. Maybe it’s industrial strength caffeine. Too much caffeine makes me really nuts. I am definitely feeling nuts.
I’m in a state of disorganization, not able to find my things, not able to find places in town, not sure how to do some basic things, and having to do everything in another language. One of my tires was low yesterday. Where do you get tires fixed? What is the word for tire? Can I make myself understood? Can I understand the answers? Can I find my dictionary??
Pick up one thing and figure out what to do with it. Get organized. Take control of my space. I am no longer living out of a suitcase. This is my home now. Use the empty boxes to organize things. Look up the word for tire. Ask the friendly neighbors. Do not drink any more coffee. I’ve been getting things done for a week here. I can continue to get things done. It doesn’t all have to be today. Poco a poco. (little by little). No more coffee.
I started painting the house. It feels good to be doing something familiar, something to make the house look good. Pull the nails. Fill the holes. Trim the edges. Roll the walls. Things are getting more organized. Boxes are in use. Music is playing on the computer. The coffee is starting to wear off. I am getting my exercise. My step ladder is a borrowed plastic chair. Step up. Step down.
There are different sounds here. Panamanian houses have tin roofs. When it heats up it “pops” and sometimes it sounds like there are coconuts falling on the roof. Usually though it is more like acorns. I hear lots of bird songs, none of which are familiar to me. There are occasional roosters in the distance. And, there are dogs! There is a pack of half a dozen dogs that seem to hang out on this street, and they started barking at sunup. One is in heat so I hope that is the cause of the excitement, and they quiet down when she settles down. In the afternoon one of the neighbors was hollering at them and throwing rocks. I haven’t seen the dogs since.
In the afternoon there was no water. I asked the neighbor who didn’t seem worried, and explained that something was going on and it would be back on later. I think someone is fixing or building something in the area but I couldn’t understand what he said very well. The internet people didn’t come today so I went out to the store at the end of the day and sure enough, when I returned the water was back on. I still haven’t bought gas tanks so it was a cold shower, but it felt good. I made it through another day and I’ve settled down. There will be no more coffee.
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Thursday 10/18/12 from David, Panamá

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham
Conquering downtown!
More things accomplished today! I conquered downtown. Well, maybe not exactly but I managed to find downtown, park the car, accomplish all the errands, and find my way home. For me, that was an achievement! The area is crowded with pedestrians, cars, trucks, and activity, and traffic signs are merely suggestions. Ha! It is surprising how much your sense of direction improves when you know if you forget where you are, it is going to be a problem. Now that I had a successful morning, my confidence has improved considerably. I even made it to the farmers market for some produce. I must have gotten a little off leaving downtown since I ended up more west than I planned, but I found the highway and after that it was easy.
I got to the house about 11:45 to wait for the delivery of my stuff sometime after 12. At 12:15, here comes the truck! Not only am I glad to have my stuff, this frees up a lot of time this afternoon to do other things, like get gas for the stove, and a Pricesmart membership. The two guys were very nice, brought in everything and set it up so it is ready for use. It felt good to have a fridge, stove, and beds! Now the house looks like a place where I can start living.
PriceSmart and gringos
The next thing was PriceSmart, and I now have my official membership card in hand. I looked around the whole store but only did a little shopping. I am starting to get overwhelmed with new stores and new everything and didn’t feel like making decisions. It seemed like there were more gringos and English speaking people than Panamanians in this store. My friends said this is gringo central and people come from all over western Panama to shop there, sometimes even making a weekend trip out of it. It’s funny. I wasn’t enjoying the old familiar American looking people and English as much as I thought I would.
Heading home, more shopping
After PriceSmart I went back to my friends’ house and collected my things. It felt strange to be moving out of this place which had been my home for my first week in Panama, but it felt good to be moving in to my own house. I also felt uneasy leaving my internet connection, which at the moment is my only means of communicating with everyone. The borrowed cell phone was about out of power so I left it behind too, and headed out on my own.
It turns out I didn’t get home for a while. I needed to stop at the shopping area down the street for food and a few things at the DoIt Center, so why not look around a bit. By the time I was done I’d found a deal on two small lamps at a lighting store (who wants to live with only overhead lights?) and, a cell phone! Hopefully this one will work properly.
Buying the phone was another small world encounter. The guy had played professional baseball, lived in Ft Meyers for a while, and had come to Sarasota for training games!
I also got some basic tools at DoIt and a bit of food at El Rey. By the time I got to the grocery store I felt so exhausted I could barely move! It was dark but thankfully not raining hard any more, and I managed to find the house in the dark without any problems. It felt good to stop moving for a little while, though it also felt very odd to be alone in my house in a foreign country. I’m living in Panama? Really? After all the months and years of talk and preparation, I am living in Panama, in my house? People do this? Just go live in a different country? Wow, hard to believe, but it’s me really doing it. Here. Now. I have the car title and rental contract to prove it.
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October 17th, Wednesday, a big day

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

one week after leaving Florida. A lot has happened in a week

Finally, the car! Today I got my car so now I am free to move about much more easily. The seller and his wife went downtown with me to do the change over. Everything went smoothly and it didn’t take long, I’m sure in large part because they had all the papers ready. The process seemed straightforward and when it was finished and I had my papers in hand. There was no waiting for a title to arrive in the mail. Insurance will have to be transferred later when the person I need to see is in the office.
The next thing on the agenda was cable and internet for the house. That also went smoothly, except for getting a parking ticket. I had forgotten to bring my tickets with me. They have a system here… the Parking System  Anyway, back to the cable people – the only problem was trying to explain how to find the house when I barely know that myself. I will print off copies of the map we made yesterday and carry them with me. Panama doesn’t have addresses like in the US, which is the topic of another post addresses in Panama

Back to the house!

Now that I had mobility, I was eager to try and find my house. I went right to it without any wrong turns! I barely know my way around so it would be easy to get lost. But, the house is between a river and a major road, and my access road dead ends not too far past my neighborhood so I couldn’t get too far off, thank goodness, since don’t have a good sense of direction. 
The house definitely needs some cleanup and paint. But, with a little TLC it is going to be a very good house for us. I met a neighbor across the street, a very nice man. He says he loves the neighborhood because it is quiet, safe, and the people are very nice. I figured out what keys go with the various locks, and set up the temporary table my friends have loaned me. It felt good to be taking the first steps to make the house a home.

Keeping the Do-It Center in business!I was thinking of trying to find my way back to the cable place to give them a map but it was starting to look like rain, and I was going to be driving right by the Do-It Center (like a Home Depot or Lowes) so I figured I’d stop in for a quick look around. I need paint and I might find other things I need as well.
Well!! It turned out that they have a LOT of things that I needed! It was a MAJOR shopping trip – stove, fridge, washing machine, microwave, beds, sheets, towels, cookware, pillows, paint, ended up with two shopping carts full. What a nice store! I wasn’t quite comfortable shopping in the store with the really cheap stuff, but PriceSmart seemed too expensive. This was a great mid range, quality brands, and they had sales on the big ticket items on my list so I am very happy with what I bought. I’m checking out, looking at the pouring rain, and thinking about loading all that stuff in the car when they ask if I want it all delivered along with the large items. Delivered? the pillows and towels and vegetable peeler? Of course, yes, we would be happy to deliver all of it. Well my goodness, how nice! Si, por favor, gracias.

When I was about finished checking out, a man came in line behind me. I started to explain that I had too many things and it might be faster to go to another checkout and he answered me in English. I noticed Florida on his hat so I had to ask. It turns out he is from about 3 miles south of where I lived in Sarasota. Wow, small world!

Tomorrow, my plans are to tackle the city. All the streets look more or less the same to me, and there are few street signs so it can be a challenge to find your way around. Since the weather tends to be dry in the mornings, that seems like a good time to try to find the cable place and if I’m really good, maybe I can find the place to pay parking tickets. Then, I will go to the house to wait for the arrival of all my stuff. I think I will spend my first night there tomorrow night. I’m not far from a produce stand, El Rey (grocery store), Do-It Center, and a bunch of other shopping so I can get anything I need. I’ll see how I feel at the time but I’m excited to be in my own place so it is very likely.

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Addresses in David, Panama, or lack of addresses

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

I don’t know if this applies to everywhere in Panama, but have a feeling it does. The situation seemed very similar in Panama City also. There are no addresses and very few street signs. My house has no address so to explain how to get here, I have to explain how to find the general neighborhood. Then I have to explain how to get to the specific house. It is similar with businesses also. You will see their address listed as a certain street between the two closest cross streets.

How does the mail get anywhere? It doesn’t. There is no mail delivery. You either get a box at the post office or use general delivery. If you don’t want to go to the post office you hire someone else to do it for you. Bills are taken around town by a currier on a bike (so I am told) and left stuck in your front gate (which I found at my house). My first day here I found a couple ads and a very soggy electric bill stuck in the gate!

This has been by far my biggest challenge, finding things in this town

This is the actual official address of FedEx. We had a good time finding this one too and if it wasn’t for Joel researching on the internet and giving me info by phone, I’d probably still be looking for it!

Building Manuligo
H North Street
Ground Floor next to Fenix Travel Agency
David – CHI – Panama

So, when you are in Panama, plan for frustration finding places. It’s just the way it goes. Directions are given by landmarks – go to KFC, then two blocks past the ball field…  If you can’t find the ball field, they can’t tell you if its north or south. You can ask directions from four different people and end up in four different parts of town. People will do all they can to help you but between our different concepts of direction and a language barrier, it can definitely be a challenge!

I saw somewhere “Panama will teach you patience”. For me, this has been the biggest challenge so far. But, I suppose it also goes with the territory when you move to an unfamiliar city, wherever it may be.

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Parking Tickets in David, Panamá

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012

Parking tickets – they have an interesting system here for parking around downtown. There are women walking around who sell parking cards for about $0.10. When you park, you put one of these cards under your windshield wiper. If the parking people check your car, they will mark your card. If they check your car again and if you have gone over the time on your card since they checked it first, then you get a ticket. If your card doesn’t get checked and marked, you can use it again next time. I asked, what if someone steals the card you left on your windshield? I was told that people just don’t do that! You don’t need to worry.
If you do get a ticket, you need to go to the municipal building to pay it. I got one and it cost me $1.
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Erratic blogging from Panama

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2012

I’ve been in the house without an internet connection for a week. I’ve been writing every day though, so my posts are going to be bunched up now as I put them up all together. You have been warned 😉

The writing has really helped me. I’m in a new city, new country, with a new language. I hardly know anyone here and I can’t communicate with anyone out of the country without internet, so I felt very disconnected alone in my new house. Writing helped me feel more connected. There are many things I want to say so ‘ll remember my experiences, and so others who are interested can hear about them. Who knows, maybe something will help another who is following a similar path and becoming an expat.

So, I’ve been writing. Many posts are about what happened in a day. Some are about aspects of Panama or the city of David that I find interesting. Some are about different ways of getting things done here. Some are about things in general that are different, or surprisingly the same. I’ll also include some pictures and videos now and then to help breathe more life into my story.

It feels really good to have internet at the house and be connected with the world again!

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Catching up – cars, houses, and cash

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012

We arrived in David, Panama a little after 9PM (after catching a bus at 2:15). It was a pleasant ride but we were tired from all the traveling. I was also tired from carting my heavy baggage around. I knew it would be weeks before anything from home would arrive, so I brought a number of books on photography and Spanish texts. That’s about the only things I thought would be hard to buy here. If I had it to do over, I would have brought less books. I had a good size suitcase that weighed just under 50 pounds before I transferred 6 books from the computer bag to it, the computer bag that still had a few books in it, and the carry on had my purse and cameras. I made it but I was glad to put all the stuff down! Hopefully when I get settled and have time, I will be glad to have the books though.
My companion had plans to stay at the Bambu Hostel where we happened to stay on our first visit to David. So, since my phone was being difficult, we figured we would take a cab to Bambu and I could call my friends from there for a ride. I was looking forward to visiting Bambu anyway, and I was not disappointed. Greg, the owner, was there and it was great to see him again. They place looked wonderful, an improved version of before with more art on the walls, organized welcoming reception area, relaxing bar area out back, the bamboo “tree house” in the back yard now completed. From what I could see in the dark, the gardens were even more beautiful than they had been before.
If you want an inexpensive place to stay that is great fun, I would definitely recommend the Bambu hostel! Of course it attracts young people and backpackers, but you can find a wide variety of people there. I found it great fun to share the kitchen and common living areas because you meet people and make new friends who probably have a lot of interesting experiences to share.
I was able to use the phone as planned to call my friends to come get me, and how nice to be picked up and settled in my temporary home. They have a great place, a bunch of wonderful dogs, but mostly I was happy to have come to my destination so I could rest, regroup, and see what comes next.
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The next day we awoke before dawn but I slept well and felt much better.
This part of Panama has many farmers, and it is normal to get up before dawn because as soon as it is light, people must get to work. Farming is hard work modest money, so most farmers also have second jobs as well. These are not lazy people! They work very hard, and most live on a fraction of what we consider adequate in the US.

Anyway, we got up for a breakfast of fresh fruit, toast, and omelets which I was to learn is the usual breakfast in this household. The objective today is to check out the car. My friend asked his mechanic for leads on suitable cars. It seems Panama discourages people from having cars, preferring they use public transportation to keep the roads less congested, so cars are expensive here, including used cars. The mechanic couldn’t find a car in my price range, but his recently retired wife wasn’t using hers and agreed to sell it. The car is exactly what I wanted to find, unassuming, reliable, in my price range, and drove well. The owner was out so his assistant said he would have him call us.

This was about enough activity for my first day. The house came the next day. Eduardo Horno, a contact who I had emailed with before arriving, had two houses for me to look at. Again, I had unbelievably good luck. The first one we looked at was perfect for our needs, and also in our price range at $385/month. Another deal was made.
I now had the house and the car. Next it was a matter of getting the money together to finish the deals. This is a cash society. Big stores take credit cards. Out of country checks are difficult to get accepted anywhere. Between individuals though and in most transactions, cash is king and cash comes from the ATM. I brought some cash but not enough for everything, so now it was a matter of daily trips to the ATM to withdraw the maximum daily allowance until I had what I needed. Both of the people I was working with understood immediately and were happy to work with me. The car guy wanted to just hold the car for me with no security deposit beyond my word, and the house guy also would do the contract and hold the keys until I had the cash. These people are much more trusting than people would have been back home, requiring at least a deposit to hold something they could have sold to someone else. I was told this is also the norm. Your word is taken as good and verbal agreements are sufficient.
So, now that I had the house and the car arranged, I think I am caught up with most of the events that have taken place up until this time. It is now Wednesday Oct 17thand things are moving forward, so I will continue this blog in its correct order as much as I can. The house deal was done yesterday. Today is the day for the car. It will be interesting to see how this day unfolds, and I’m sure I will be back to write about it soon. Hasta Pronto!
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Visiting Boquette and taking the bus

Posted on November 10, 2012 by Kris Cunningham

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2012

What a day!! Lots of things happened today. I should be catching up on past events but it was such a good day I want to write about it right now. So, things are out of order? This is Panama. Things aren’t always in order (by our USA standards) and that is OK.

It’s Tuesday, 10/16/12 or as they do it here in Panama, 16/10/12. Today was the day of the market in Boquette so I decided to tag along with my friends. It turned out to be an excellent day!

First, I met the guy who manages my house. We did the contract and necessary business, and now I have keys to the house! I’m looking forward to arranging the necessities and getting settled in. Property management here is more than good. He translated the contract line by line to be sure it was all clear. He does all the communicating with the owners, and stops by the house every month to pick up the rent. He even offered to take me to where one can buy good fresh fish! He also gave me all sorts of advice on setting up utilities and necessities. I’m glad I got connected with this good man.

028

The market in Boquette was also very interesting and I met and talked with a lot of people. Oh dear, can I even remember everyone I met? I connected with Chris the fish guy, Juan Linares, the Argentian chef with the delicious quiche, Lyn with the heavenly soap. Eric (www.rambalajunglelodge.com) about life in Panama, and an invitation to enjoy it at his resort. There was a lady with quilts, people with food. I can’t even remember how many people I talked with… the young people with the hand made jewelry, the man with home made bread, produce people….

I was also very excited to talk with two mola sellers at the market. Molas are a very interesting native Panamanian craft. I have seen them on line, read about them, but hadn’t seen them in person. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mola_(art_form) One guy has molas made by his mother and sister. He told me it takes at least a week to make just one of them. The other has molas made by his mother, and a variety of other similar items. I bought hot pads/gloves for the kitchen but I doubt I will be able to actually use them. They are far too beautiful. But, I know the man now so I suppose if I mess them up I can get some more from him. I also plan to get some authentic molas after I get more settled.

I was also happy to meet Elizabeth Whorley. I’ve read her book, http://comingoutincoffeeland.com/ and I’ve also read about her coffee farm (I bought a pound) and her quest to learn about natural healing and traditional remedies, which is becoming another successful business because of her excellent results.
http://cloudforestbotanicals.com/

Most of all though, in Boquette, I was so happy to meet my teacher! We have met on line almost daily for months, and she has worked and worked and worked with me, trying to get Spanish into my thick head. I am hardly fluent but finally I can get by and understand some of what is said to me. We have also become good friends so it was a great pleasure to finally meet in person without headsets and webcams. This, more than anything, made my day! I met her through Habla Ya. Check out this school for lessons as well as all kinds of field trips and activities. I am looking forward to getting more involved now that I am in the area. http://www.hablayapanama.com/

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My friends were finished with the market before my teacher was free, so they left me to visit the school and make my own way back home using the buses. This also turned out to be a much better experience than I expected.

My teacher directed me to the bus stop for the first leg of the journey and I boarded the old US school bus that serves as one of the buses on this route. We all know school buses aren’t the height of comfort but it wasn’t bad, just a bit bumpy. It wasn’t totally the bus’s fault though since the road is under construction. The bus became more and more crowded as it stopped for more people, but all was very orderly. Many young people boarded in front of a school but there was no rowdy behavior. All the youngsters and teenagers were very quiet, just taking whatever seats were available and riding silently as the bus proceeded on. In the US things probably would have been a bit different, and much noisier.
The bus’s final stop is at the bus depot in town. You pay as you get off the bus. There is a driver, and an assistant who collects the money and does whatever else is needed to assist the passengers.

I had a bit of trouble finding the bus to San Pablo Viejo where my friends live. There are a number of buses that come through that neighborhood, and a whole lot of buses at the depot! I found the ones that go from city to city, was directed elsewhere and went too far so I was in the section for the buses to Panama City. I was directed back and found the smaller white buses that are the local buses. I asked a man for help and he called another man who took me to a correct bus and handed me off to the helper on that bus.

Again, I was very impressed. The bus filled up until there was standing room only. The helper jumped out at every stop, took bags out of hands, helped people into the bus, stowed the bags and packages at the front if people didn’t have room at their seats. He helped people over puddles (very rainy day here and everything is wet), helped people up and down the steps, took the money (again, you pay as you get off), and alerted the driver when passengers wanted to get off the bus. If someone in the back needed to get off, everyone standing up got off the bus, let the passenger out, and then got back on the bus without the slightest hint of bother. Someone had baby chicks. I could hear them peeping through the whole ride. People had children. There were a number of school kids. Everyone was quiet and polite. If a woman got on and there were no seats, the nearest man immediately got out of his seat and gave it to her. I am very impressed with the bus service here and the people who use it.

Why did I buy a car??! There will be times when I’m glad to have a car, but I expect to be riding the bus frequently also. Why drive when you can relax, read, nap, or whatever you wish while someone else drives.

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That is my adventures for today. Tomorrow I pick up my car. Then I need to set up internet and other services at the house. After that it’s time for some serious shopping for necessities so I can start staying at the house!

It will be interesting to see what tomorrow holds.

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