Murciélagos – Bats

I’ve seen bats in the evening for as long as I’ve lived here but I never had a chance to get a good look at them, until recently.

One night the power went out. Maybe we left the doors open at some point? I don’t know, but the next morning one of the bananas in the kitchen had been nibbled. Joel put it outside. We have a terrace that goes the length of the house. The front part is the carport, the middle, enclosed part is the laundry and storage room, and the back part is my outdoor office, dining room, social space, or whatever use we need at the moment. We have a couple pails on the washing machine where we put vegetable and fruit scraps waiting to be taken to the compost pile. The nibbled banana was put next to the pails and we didn’t think anything more about it.

That evening we happened to have some cyclists staying here. We were eating dinner on the terrace and this bat started flying over the table, through the laundry room, and around and around. Finally we realized what it was doing when it landed on the banana. It kept coming back to the banana to grab another bite until it had made the hole considerably bigger than before.

I saved the rest of the banana and put it out again the next night. Sure enough, the bat and a buddy came to visit. The next night it was three or four. They fly so fast sometimes it’s hard to tell how many their are unless they all happen to be in the laundry room at the same time, but we seem to have between two and four visitors every night.

Of course, out comes the camera. It is surprisingly difficult to get a decent photo of these little guys. they are in almost constant motion!

I must have snapped sixty pictures, and my efforts were rewarded with a couple almost decent ones. It’s interesting that I tried standing in the laundry room not 5-6 feet from the banana and they paid no attention to me.

Of course, nothing can give the feel for our bat experience like a video!

You just never know what is going to go on around here. It is now 10PM and the bats are back, flying around and around. It looks like only two of them but they have managed to eat half of an entire banana while we were watching TV. There is also a huge waved sphinx moth who came flying in here making a heck of a racket, bumping into everything in sight. It’s as big as a humming bird and just as noisy! It finally settled down on the floor next to me where it’s been for a couple hours.

915moth1

And, even more fun, the toucans have been visiting my neighbors’ papaya tree! They say the birds have been there pretty much every morning and sometimes at other times. I saw one fly in front of our house yesterday afternoon but it went into the tree where I couldn’t see it any more. I will, of course, keep my camera handy at all times just in case I get a chance for a lucky shot.

I have been cautioned by many of my Facebook friends about the bats. There are vampire bats in Panama but these are not them. Vampire bats hunt only in darkness (which is why Cedo’s calves and pigs on the farm sleep under lights to protect them). I had a hard time finding good statistics on line, but one I found said there were only 4 incidences of rabies between 1993 and 2002. Rabies vaccinations are not recommended in Panama unless you are working with wildlife in the wilderness. My neighbors are very concerned about various things here – snakes, fuzzy caterpillars, various insects, some plants, etc but I have never heard rabies mentioned, nor do they seem concerned about the bats.

As for moving in to the house and making a mess, there is a whole neighborhood of houses at their disposal but I have never heard of anyone saying they had bats in the house. We are right next to a large wooded area and I’m sure they have been living there for years, and I’m not too worried about them moving in here. Besides, what bat in its right mind would want to listen to Joel’s guitar all day when it is trying to sleep?

If you really want to freak yourself out, google “megabat” 😀

 

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Visiting Cows

I went biking on one of my favorite routes yesterday. It was a pretty day, lots of cows were hanging out near fences, and I just felt like photographing them. Maybe it was because they seemed to be in such mellow moods. Usually they will move away from me if I stop but yesterday they mostly just stood and looked at me.

The route to Aguacatal is very pretty with many green cow pastures and mountains behind. It looks like scenery that should be in a travel magazine.

On the return ride I decided to take an alternate route down a side road that eventually ends up in Nuevo San Carlit0s, and then to San Vicente back in town.

On the way home I took a small detour behind our neighborhood. There is a lemon tree back there that is just starting to produce, and some calves that have been moved to the larger field on the corner.

One reason I headed home was the gray clouds gathering in the distance. I wasn’t home for two minutes when it started to rain, and it quickly turned in to quite a downpour. I wasn’t expecting it to come quite that fast or early in the day so I was really lucky to get home when I did!

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Cost of Living, August 2015

Once in a while I do a cost of living report so we can see how we are doing. Also, many others want to know what it costs to live here and are very interested in our numbers. Of course, this is just us. Others may live in different places, have different lifestyles, and their spending could look quite different.

Basic/monthly expenses –
Rent $385
Electricity $41.46 (this is a pretty typical monthly bill. We have AC but rarely use it)
Cable (TV/internet) $63.29
Internet plan for two iPads – $22
Insurance for two cars (one full coverage, other liability only) $61.35
Gas for the cars $44
Phone $10.70  (I have a pay as you go phone. This should last around a month, and Joel talks less and rarely needs to buy time)
Skype $12 (we both have plans that allow unlimited calls to the USA)
Food $284.72

Total $924.53

If we had needed to refill a gas tank for the kitchen it would have been $5.12, but it usually lasts more than a month so we didn’t have to refill it this month.

Water and trash is included in our rent, but if we had to pay it would be $5.25/month for water, and $4.80 for trash pickup (twice a week).

Then, there are always a few extra things, many of them optional. I think the list this month was a bit higher than usual –

Beer and liquor $37.97
Printer cartridges $37
Bike repairs $17 (new axle, new stem – I think it’s called, for the handlebars, and new brake cables, parts and labor)
Painting class $50/month
Painting supplies $47 (should last me 3 months or so)
We took a quick trip to Panama City to pick up our cedulas. That cost us $129.76 ($42.40 for 2 round trip bus tickets, $56.67 for hotel, $11 for taxis, and $19.69 for the lunch stops – 4 meals)
Joel also spent around $130 for guitar parts – tuners and other things to rehab a guitar.
All of these extras added up to $318.73

Grand total $1243.26

Other cost of living reports can be found HERE.

Considering it cost us about $3000/month to live in Sarasota, Florida when we left in 2012, just the house, electricity, food, phones, etc, just the basics, I think we are doing much better here. We have seen some costs rise as they have everywhere, but we are still able to live well within our means. And, the bonus we didn’t expect, it is such a good life. If money was no consideration whatsoever, I would still want to live here. We came for economic reasons but the benefits have exceeded our expectations in many other ways.

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Watching Bananas Grow

I had no idea how bananas grew before I moved to more tropical areas. I knew what a banana plant looked like, but had never seen the flowers and fruit. There are some huge banana trees in the woods near our house, and a couple years ago we took some pups and transplanted them in our yard. We now have the second bunch of bananas in our own yard.

These bananas are really tall!

Here's Joel, a full size man to give you some perspective

Here’s Joel, a full size man, to give you some perspective

The bananas are always making new leaves, long slim green buds that unfurl into beautiful leaves.

A new banana leaf emerges - look for that long slim green part coming straight up from the plant

A new banana leaf emerges – look for that long slim green part coming straight up from the plant

Then, one day I noticed this

This bud does not look like a regular leaf

This bud does not look like a regular leaf (Monday, 8/10)

So, I decided to watch what this bud does and take a picture every morning.

Once the bananas started to appear they grew very rapidly!

Now, the bananas are starting to look fairly full size, and I don’t think the buds are going to result in any more bananas. From here it can take quite a while before they are actually ripe and ready to eat. I am not good at judging when to harvest time. I was just told they are ready when they are fat. I think we harvested the last bunch a bit early because they sat on the back terrace for quite some time but they eventually ripened just fine and were very yummy.

Another interesting thing I didn’t know – when a banana tree has fruit it will die. But, by that time it has probably grown a least a couple pups. This particular tree is a pup of the last one that produced fruit. It now has a very large pup, a medium size pup, and a very little one that is just emerging from the ground. You can see the two larger ones in the photo with Joel at the top of the post, to his left (your right).

You will notice that these bananas are red. They are a different variety which my neighbors call “manzana” (apple). I cannot find any information on the internet using this name, but a search for “red banana” brings up bananas that look like these. They have a slightly different flavor and texture but they are really good, maybe even better than the yellow ones, in my opinion. Maybe we just like them better because something you grow yourself is always special.

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Buying Herbalife in Panama, and getting various things done

There are so many wonderful things about this country, but once in a while there is a hiccup. Add my less that stellar Spanish on the phone and it can get very… umm … interesting.

My California daughter sells Herbalife.  She tried it and was thrilled with the results. She met a lot of other people who were also having outstanding success at losing weight, or just being healthy and feeling good. I eat healthy and bike many miles but every ounce is attached to my body with superglue and won’t leave, so I figured why not? I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

But, I am in Panama. Herbalife is sold here but how do you access it? There is a website but beyond some very general information it refers you to your associate. My daughter called the main office in California and they said to call on the phone to sign up. So, I call on the phone. In two minutes I am frustrated with the gal’s rapid fire Spanish and hand the phone to Cedo, who later explains she was told I need to use the website to sign up. *sigh*

Then, I noticed the little link where associates can sign in. I call my daughter and get her log in information and voila! She is logged in to the Panama site with access to all the products, literature, and anything else you would want. So, I get to thinking…. I can sign up on line using the USA site. Once I get my number and password, I can then go shopping at the Panama site.

It works! Everything goes as planned. I buy only a couple things just in case they fall into a black hole, and then it goes to the payment instructions. No, you cannot use your credit card. You can either go to Banco General and pay, and then scan and email that receipt. Or, you can transfer money from your bank to their account.

I put in my order and pay by money transfer, and wait. Nothing happens. A few days go by and I email. Nothing. I email again, and then I finally email with stronger wording that my USA associate cannot help me and they must tell me what I need to do for the next step! The reply comes – send us the receipt (why didn’t it say this in the instructions for money transfers??). So I email the scanned receipt and am told it will take three days because money is going from one bank to another. But, I did this last Friday and it is now the following Thursday. The next email says – your products have been released.

OK, now what?? I email again, and again and again.  How do the products get to David? How do I get them? Again, finally, when I am about to give up and enlist someone’s help on the phone, a strongly worded email gets a reply – your products have been at Servientrega since the 6th, and here is your tracking number (it is now the 14th). *sigh* OK, fine. I bike down to the office the next morning and pick up my box without a problem.

Now I am ready to order what I will need for the month, and I know I had better not wait until the last week or two! I place my order. I print out the transfer receipt, scan it and email it on Friday morning. Three business days should land on Tuesday. I email on Wednesday… nothing. I email and resend the receipt on Thursday. Your products have been released.

I should have gone to pick them up yesterday but I have a really rotten cold and anything that can wait is being put on hold. Then, in the afternoon, my phone rang. It was the Servientrega guys looking for my house. In a few minutes a white van pulled up with two nice guys who handed me my box, had me sign the receipt, checked my ID (oh how I love pulling out the cedula!), and went on their way.

What a great surprise! especially when I didn’t feel like doing anything, especially driving all the way to the other side of town, and these nice guys bring my box to my front gate. Thank you Servientrega guys! (no, I don’t know why this one got delivered and the first order did not.)

Just in case you think getting anything done here is a nightmare, I can tell you about getting new plates for my car. I went to the insurance company to pay for another year. She had the paper waiting on the desk (did they just figure since it expires at the end of the month I would be coming by?). I wrote them a check, they printed out new paperwork, and I was done.

Then, I go to a shop for the car inspection. There are three people ahead of us so we check email and hang out for a while until it is our turn. The guy has me park the car in the special space out front. He checks the tires for tread, takes photos from the front, side, and back, collects $11, prints out the inspection form, and I am done.  (heck of an inspection, eh? Every light on the car could be broken and the brakes not working LOL)

I know better than to try to do anything at lunch hour so I go home for lunch, and make copies of everything (one can never have too many copies so before going anywhere, make at least a couple copies of everything!). Then, I head downtown where I have to wait about 3 minutes. I hand in my inspection report, the original and a copy, pay my $36, and take my receipt to the other window. The lady has me write my name and phone number in a book, hands me my new plate and inspection sticker with my paperwork, and I am done. The whole process was done in a day and was very easy.

I also went to the bank. My updated credit card arrived (thanks to my California daughter who manages my US mail). I figured after all that Herbalife shopping I should replenish the bank account, and also get some cash. I present my credit card to the teller…. noo…. lo siento… you have to use the ATM machine. OK, no problem. I’ll use the one right over there. But she says wait? See this phone number on the back? You need to call them and tell them you are in another country. Have you ever done this before? (I have been using my Schwab card for three years to access my funds). So, I go to the ATM, it spits out cash, I go back to the teller and put some in checking and some in savings, and the rest in my wallet. Done! There was also no waiting in the bank, and they have always been extremely pleasant and polite to me.

Most things aren’t crazy here. Maybe that’s why something like this is frustrating. But, I am getting better with the Herbalife ordering process and even had two nice guys bring it to my door! That’s not all bad for sure.

TIP = this is Panama. Sometimes that’s all you can say.

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Art Class

One of the nice things about retirement is having time to do some interesting things that you couldn’t fit in while you were working. My friend Hydeé visited one day and mentioned an art school close by. It sounded interesting so we decided to check it out.

Then, she got busy. She works full time and also takes university classes, and then the car needed some expensive repairs. But, by now the idea had been rolling around in my head and I really wanted to go, so I decided to start by myself.

I really like the teacher Prof. Víctor Aguirre Chirú, but unfortunately he seems a bit elusive on line so I haven’t been able to find examples of his work. There is one of his paintings about half way down this page. There is also a Facebook page for the school, the Centro de Arte José Cáceres O. here.

The teacher did show me some of his paintings in his smart phone, and I love what he does with light and shadow. What I saw looked vibrant and alive. But, I have a ways to go and a lot to learn before I can do anything close to that. The first month of class was drawing in a sketch pad with charcoal pencils.

Little by little I could feel it getting slightly easier. The teacher says it takes a while to develop the communication between the eye and the hand. He also worked with me a lot on brightness and shadow. For a drawing to look right it has to have more contrast, more light and shadow than in a photo. Everything of mine looked pretty flat until he prodded me in the right direction.

Then, I was off on the bike trip. He promised we would start painting when I returned!

Next, I think I’m going to tackle colored glass bottles on a windowsill. I want to start creating my own ideas instead of copying photos, though I will need photos of various bottles to get me started. That should be quite challenging and give me a lot of opportunity to work with light. I like photography a lot but this has been a very interesting new medium. I like using the colors and mixing them, and I also like the ability to add some texture. Drawing is OK but painting, yes, that is doing it for me.

I also enjoy the classes. Most of the students are kids, some as young as four. There is one little girl who is so adorable I just want to squeeze her and take her home.  The little ones are usually given pencil drawings to color in, hopefully staying more or less in the lines. They have some sort of soft crayons and the little girl usually has a much paint on herself as on the paper.

There is another lovely eight year old who loves practicing her English with me. She and some of the older kids do some really remarkable work. Many of them are working on very large paintings with a considerable amount of skill! Maybe when parents pick them up I’ll have to ask if I can take some photos of them and their work.

I like retirement!

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A Farm Report

I hadn’t been to my friend Cedo’s farm for quite a while, so I was very interested to see how everything was going up there. She told me there are 11 new calves, and there are more on the way. Sure enough, there were cows everywhere!

Of course, while we were there I had to visit the pigs. This visit felt slightly different though. One of them recently ended up in various freezers and on various dinner tables, including ours. I don’t think I have ever eaten an animal that I had met previously. I know they are raised for meat so it didn’t feel too weird, but I also didn’t witness or take part in the process of converting it from one of these to packages of meat.

It was strange to see the chicken area empty. Apparently, a while back, there was a problem with coyotes or something killing chickens, so the remaining chickens were brought down to Cedo’s back yard where they are happily running around and laying eggs, well except for the rooster who is happily running around, crowing, and keeping an eye on all the ladies.

It seemed like there were calves everywhere, and I’m sure I missed a few of them.

So this is a little bit of what things are looking like at the farm these days. (sshhh, don’t say this too loud, knock on wood, cross fingers, etc etc) Things have been going smoothly. No one has been seriously sick (though Cedo has brought up medicine on a regular basis for one thing or another), no one has died, and nothing has broken. We are much luckier here than in other parts of Panama because although we aren’t getting a normal amount of rainfall this season, at least we are getting enough to keep things going. In the Azeuro Peninsula many animals are dying because of lack of rain and not enough water or grass to eat.

We also had an unexpected treat on this visit, a pavo de campo (a wild turkey, Panama style).  There were two of them running around in the grass beside the driveway up to the farm. Cedo says people like to find their eggs and give them to the chickens who will raise them with their own chicks. People eat them but the meat is harder and has a different flavor. I think they are just very pretty birds!

It was a good day, and we came home with lots of things – chayotes (a nice squash veggie, one of my favorites), bananas, firewood, plantain leaves, bijao leaves (yes, tamales are planned!), and a few starts of otoe for me ( also knows as taro. It’s a root vegetable that I like a lot, and the plants are also very beautiful).

Speaking of rain, we are having a downpour so I should publish this and log off just in case! Thank you clouds for the rain.

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Pan-American Highway Construction

The highway between David and Santiago in Panama has been under construction for quite a while. It is a huge job. They have been working hard and getting a lot done. We could see quite a difference from the last time we went through there.  But there is still a lot more to do so this job won’t be finished for some time yet. One of my big concerns is the cyclists that come through this area. I worry about their safety in heavy traffic, often with no shoulder or space to get out of the way.

The biggest concern is the part between David and Santiago because there is no alternate route. We took the bus to Panama City last week so I took the opportunity to take photographs. On the way out we were in the second row looking through a windshield with cracks, and on the way back we were in the very front seat of the upper level so until it started to get dark, it was a great place to take photos.

Just east of Guabala and the checkpoint, there is an option to take route 5 through Sona and on to Santiago. It is a bit longer and there are more hills according to cyclists who have taken this route, but it is very scenic, has much less traffic, and is safer than continuing on the highway.

But, for those who want to see what it looks like on the highway between Guabala and Santiago, here are some photos.

We are going to be so happy when the highway is finished! It’s going to be such an improvement, and such a pleasure. I suppose spending two days in a bus isn’t the greatest pleasure but it will be better when the road is smooth and the driver can make good time.

Why did we spend two days in the bus? We had a very good reason. We applied for cedulas (a permanent identification card similar to a social security card in the US) with the help of Luis, our guy in Panama City. He notified us that everything was done and they were ready for us to come in. We had to go to Panama City in person to check that all the information was correct, pay $65 each, and  get our pictures taken. We were told to wait one week and then check at the Tribunal Electoral here in David. We went in on Wednesday and as promised, our cards had been sent here and were waiting for us to pick them up.

We now both have cedulas! This is a step beyond residency and really makes us look and feel a part of this country. It also has a number that won’t change every time our passport number changes (which was our ID number before this). We didn’t have to get cedulas but I wanted to, just because it feels good and I love being a part of this country.

 

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Another Chicken Report

The chickens are now four weeks old, and they certainly have changed a lot in that time! They have gone from this at one day old

Cedo gives them one last inspection before we go out to do other errands.

to this, at two weeks old.

815chicks7

This is the chickens on the 13th, three weeks and three days old. They are pretty funny looking at the moment. The white ones have been eating a lot and putting on weight, where the dark ones are not as big but are growing more feathers.

 

I stopped by on Friday the 14th, and the chickens were out in the yard. Harry, Cedo’s son was here for the weekend and was helping to chase them back in their house. It is easier to clean their house with them out, and they enjoy running around but when no one is home to keep an eye on them they have to go back in their house.

815chicks4

The older, egg laying chickens are now in the side yard. Cedo was tired of them digging up all her plants and they can get in less trouble there. I saw some bits of feathers on the ground and asked what happened. They girls are able to fly over the fence so Cedo clipped their wings a bit so they will stay where they are supposed to stay.

But, the good news from the older girls is that more of them are starting to produce eggs. They are pretty small at this point but they are just getting started, and the eggs are expected to get bigger in time.

home grown eggs!

home grown eggs!

Today, the 18th, the chicks are four weeks and one day old. They have grown more feathers and look considerably better, and they continue to grow rapidly. Cedo says they also continue to eat a lot and raise a fuss if their feed container ever runs low.

The older girls, fine looking girls that they are, they are all laying eggs now!

The hens hang out in the shade of the plants.

The hens hang out in the shade of the plants.

Look what I got last night! This is my first box of home grown eggs. I almost don’t want to eat them, but I’m also anxious to see what they are like. So, tomorrow, it’s home grown eggs for breakfast. Thank you chickens, and thank you Cedo for all the work taking care of them.

815chicks8

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Learning Spanish

Life is so much easier and more fun if you can communicate! Those of you who have followed my blog for a while know how I feel about learning the local language. You don’t have to speak perfectly or even close to it, but if you can make yourself understood and understand most of what is said to you, it’s a wonderful thing. There are people who speak English in various businesses around town but you can’t count on that when you need someone, so it’s much easier to get things done when you know some Spanish. And, best of all, you can be friends with the locals. My Panamanian friends are like sunshine in my life.

I took classes on line with Habla Ya for six months before I arrived and this helped me enormously. I thank the school and my teacher Yaira every day for my ability to communicate. Their teachers are very kind and patient, but also very professional and capable. They are running a special for expats in Panama right now, so check THIS LINK for details.  Even if you aren’t in Panama or close to one of their schools (Boquete, Bocas del Toro, and Panama City) you can take classes on line. This is what I did. I had class for an hour a day plus homework. That’s enough to pound a fair amount of Spanish into even my thick head.

Then, you need to find friends who don’t speak English. You are forced to use your Spanish, and listening helps so much with understanding. Local people can tell you about life here, the culture, food, where to shop, life stories, and explanations of things that are confusing. You can also hand them the phone on those days when your Spanish has just flown out of your head and a phone conversation is an exercise in frustration.

So, this is my rant for the day. Go learn the language in whatever way works for you. If you are like me though, and you know your teacher will be waiting to check your homework, you are much more likely to study every day.

P.S. I generally don’t promote businesses on my blog, but these folks made a big difference in my life here and have more than earned my support.

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