We are So Fortunate!

Posted on June 10, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

Sometimes something reminds me of what is going on back in the US, and what a tough time some people are having.

I recently got a new blog follower, 62 year old guy who has been unable to find a job. He’s gone through his savings and his house is in danger of foreclosure. He has been looking for many months without success, and is resigning himself to the fact that he may never have a job again. He will need to find a life that he can manage on his social security income, perhaps a life in Panama.

He is only one of many thousands. Yesterday I came across THIS (chart below) on a site I visit occasionally. Their information is from the Economic Policy Institute.  The unemployment statistics don’t count people who have given up on finding a job, the “missing workers”. The EPI says there are almost six million of these people! If these people were counted the unemployment rater would be 9.7%.

missing-workers-by-age

Almost all of us have been through the process of looking for a job. We understand it can be difficult. When it goes on and on there is increasing uncertainty, financial hardship, discouragement, and frustration. And, this affects the working people too. I expect they have to put up with whatever conditions are in the workplace because they don’t have the option to go elsewhere.

Many retirees are looking at other options because it’s just too expensive for them to live in the US. But, what about others who are forced to retire sooner than planned, and use up all their savings while trying to find a job? They not only have a lower income than expected, but they don’t have the safety net of savings.

It makes me wonder how these people will do if they move to Panama (or anywhere else). If people are forced to move because of economic circumstances, can these people make the necessary changes and adjustments and build a happy life? If they are not happy but can’t afford to leave, then what?

I choose to ignore what goes on in the US. There is nothing I can do about any of it so it’s only depressing and frustrating. Once in a while though something gets through to me and gets me going. How is it OK that so many people suffered through the recession and continue to suffer? How is it OK that politicians spend more energy butting heads than fixing problems?  How is it OK that the rich get richer while much of the middle class slides into poverty?  How it OK that our health care system is a mess? or educational system is getting worse? It feels like love and generosity have been overcome by greed and fear.

OK, I’m done. This is why I don’t watch the news or keep up with things up there. It only makes me nuts. Life here is calm. Generosity is the norm. Some people are very poor but education, health care, and jobs are available for all. People can change their circumstances. The government, though far from perfect, is working on improving the lives of the people. I don’t sense the hopelessness and frustration of so many in the US who went to school, worked hard, did the right things, yet still got slapped down.

Every day I wake up to this life here, I am thankful.

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Los Cangilones de Gualaca

Posted on June 8, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

We had been hearing about this great swimming spot in the river canyons near Gualaca for some time, so today we decided to go check it out. What a great afternoon! We had such a good time.

Gualaca is a town about 45 minutes from David. We took the Pan-American highway east about 14 kilometers to Chiriqui, and then headed north to Gualaca. The river canyons are just north of town and there are signs directing you to the spot.

It was a beautiful day and a beautiful drive. As we left, we stopped by to say hello to my friend Cedo. She had never been there so we brought her along. Good times are always even better shared with good friends.

It was a beautiful day for a drive.
The road from town to the canyons is also very beautiful.
As we parked we could hear the children below, and then we saw the water.
It was a nice Sunday afternoon and there were quite a few people having fun.
There were beautiful trees with bromiliads and other plants growing on them.
This huge old tree was clinging to the side of the hill.
What a beautiful place!
Mi esposo y mi amiga (my husband and my friend)
There were many families enjoying the afternoon.
I thought the water would be cold but it was very pleasant.
The water is very clear. You can see the underwater rocks in this photo.
This dad was teaching his boy to swim.
The view upriver. It wasn’t as deep here so people were swimming farther down.
The water is below that crack in the rocks and kids were having fun jumping from here to the water below.
At the end of the road where we parked is this beautiful teak forest.
There was a stream flowing through the forest the went out to the larger river.

There will definitely be more visits to this beautiful spot! If you are in the area it’s well worth a side trip to relax, swim, or just enjoy the scenery.

One more photo of the deepest part of the canyon, or the part highest above the water

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Split-Second Story

Posted on June 5, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

Split-Second Story  For this week’s challenge, we want you to become a documentary photographer and attempt to capture a candid moment of a person, place, or thing. Put your National Geographic hat on and tell a story by documenting a moment in time through a single image. 

splitsecond1

Yesterday we went to the older part of downtown looking for coconut oil. I knew of someone who works in this crazy building. It has a number of tiny shops selling all sorts of things. You can see plantains on the right, beans, corn, squash, garlic, and other items on the left. The lady we needed is on the right just past all the hanging plastic containers and the buckets on the floor. She has a wide variety of things  in her tiny space where she works long hours every day. Word is she always has coconut oil, and we were not disappointed.

 

Here is the view outside the building where people are selling a lot of other things on the street.

People are also selling things outside the building. The bags closest are cakes of brown sugar. I also see plantains, potatoes, bags of corn, and other root vegetables.

 

I like the girl running and the pigeons flying to get out of her way.

I like the girl running and the pigeons flying to get out of her way.

 

Nearby are other vendors selling food on the sidewalk. I've been here before and found the people very nice and helpful if you have any questions about anything they sell.

This corner is another of many spots that always have vendors. I bought some pifa (a type of palm nut) from these ladies once and they were so nice. They carefully explained what they were, how they were cooked, and how one should eat them (with milk or Coca Cola). They even cut and peeled one for me to try.

 

Here is my split second snapshot of life on the street in the older part of downtown David. It’s busy, colorful, messy, teaming with activity, and always interesting.

 

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The Benefits of Biking

Posted on June 4, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

I’ve been riding my bicycle a lot, as I mentioned in my last post. Riding here in Panama is different than in the US. Many people have bikes as their main mode of transportation so there are always bikes in the road. People also walk a lot, so the cars are used to sharing the road and are much more considerate of bikers and pedestrians. I avoid a few high traffic areas and the Pan-American highway that has no shoulders or extra space for bikes, but generally I feel like I can go anywhere I want.

People here are very outgoing and friendly. I’m always greeted by numerous people and I’ve made some nice friends. Many want to practice their English so I’m less startled now by an English greeting when I’m expecting Spanish. I’ve learned my way around town more and have found a number of interesting shops and businesses. A post will be coming soon about the guys who hand made the new tables in my living room.

Of course, I always have a camera. Unfortunately the screen in my handy little video camera died, but Joel was nice enough to give me his little Kodak and that seems to be working out well. My favorite routes are to ride through town and then south or southwest towards La Barqueta.

Volcan Baru is so tall it can usually be seen from almost everywhere.
There are some country side roads if you want to get off the beaten path.
Of course, there are amazing trees everywhere.
There are a lot of cows too. This bull was nice enough to stand at the fence and look at me so I could get a good photo.
I happened across this group of Suntracs (labor union) gathering for a labor day parade.
The marina in Pedregal always has some pretty boats.
Another amazing tree.
Those guys are always outside making furniture. That’s a car upholstery shop just beyond.
I’m not sure where i saw this pretty lizzard.
I never get tired of Volcan Baru
The nearby mountains and hills are always beautiful too.
One day i found this nesting area full of egrets.
This girl is actually near our house. She and her friends had come down from the hill next to a bit of land that has been cleared for more houses.
I went past the fence beyond the Pedregal public marina and saw these old boats. When guys piled on to one and started it up, I realized they are working fishing boats.
Just as I was about to leave, the military patrol showed up. They work very hard to patrol the waters and keep drugs from coming in to the country.
Volcan Baru looked especially striking this day without any clouds in front of it.
Sometimes cows run off when I stop, but this group was happy to hang out and let me take photos.
This pretty pond is on the way to La Barqueta. You see a lot of things on a bike that you might miss in a car.
I never get tired of Volcan Baru!

Biking works well for me. It’s fun and doesn’t bother my knees. But, the benefits have gone beyond exercise. I love being outdoors, I love being out with people and seeing what is going on around town, I love getting to know the town better and finding things I wouldn’t know about otherwise, and I love being out in the countryside where its so beautiful.

I’m retired and I have the time, so there is no excuse for neglecting my priorities. Health and well being are very important because I have things to DO! I’ll be able to do a lot more for a lot longer if I’m strong and healthy. I also believe that having a good sense of community, friends, and family (adopted and honorary family counts too) is important for good health and a positive outlook. So, for me, biking has worked out even better than I expected.

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100 Days

Posted on June 3, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

What can you accomplish if you commit to working on something for 100 days? That’s what Give it 100 is all about. Make a 10 second video of yourself working on your project and post it to the site. Do  this every day for 100 days, and see how much better you are at the end than you were when you started.

You can find all sorts of projects on the site, but the majority of people seem to be working on getting healthy – diet and exercise. I fit that category and have been biking for 100 days. People can follow each other and leave comments which I’ve found very helpful. When you know people will wonder where you were yesterday, you are less likely to slack off.

Yesterday was my day 100, and I celebrated with a 3 hour, 31 mile bike ride! There is no way I could have done this in the past. I remember when a 30 minute ride was a big deal, and now it’s a day off. My legs are stronger, my weight is inching down in spite of a cruise and other holidays (and the eating that goes with them) and I’m feeling good.

When your 100 days are done you have the option to still continue for as long as you wish. I will be continuing. I enjoy the people I’ve met on the site, and I love the benefits.

If you’re curious about me on the site, click HERE. I can’t video and ride at the same time, so I try to stop somewhere along the way and video my surroundings for 10 seconds. If I wasn’t biking that day, I’ll fill the slot with a video of what I was doing so my page is a collection of videos of all sorts of things.

I just thought I’d share this site in case any of you might find it helpful to keep yourself on track with anything you are working on. You can post videos of yourself learning Spanish, cleaning the house, practicing yoga, learning ukulele, or anything you can imagine!

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Boca Chica

Posted on June 2, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

We spent Saturday night at the Seagullcove Lodge in Boca Chica. We had been there before and really liked it, so when an Oferta Simple deal was available I bought it.

I have written about this place before (click HERE) Our last visit was many months ago but not only were Marcello and Luis still there, they were very happy to see us again! As before, the setting is really beautiful, the accommodations are excellent, and the food is really good.

Panamanians often don’t travel much. My friend and neighbor Haydeé has lived in Boquete and David almost all of her life, but had never seen Boca Chica. I figured we needed to change that and bring her too. Her husband was supposed to come but suddenly was swamped with work, so I convinced her to come without him. It was as much fun sharing her experience as it was enjoying our own there.

The most fun part of this visit was when we hired a water taxi to take us out for a tour. The islands out beyond are very rocky and wild, and so beautiful!

The view from the main lodge is really beautiful.
Check out the big flower bud on this banana.
Bromiliads in the trees.
The dock down below,
I came across this little iguana on the path.
Off we go in the water taxi.
A fishing boat.
Rocky shore line.
The fishing boats may look funky and rusty, but they are working boats.
There were many small islands like this
Many of them were mostly rocks
The sky was gorgeous
We had a perfect day to go out!
Interesting rock arch on the end of this island
We also saw a number of these little sandy beaches. It would be fun to go for a swim and then explore the island a bit.
At first I didn’t know why he was getting so close to this island, until I saw this interesting opening
It was like a cave going through the island!
As we headed in another direction, we were going the same direction as the waves. Our driver rode one of the waves like we were surfing!
There were so many interesting rock formations, like the islands had been squeezed up from the depths of the earth.
As we returned, some great clouds started to form.
That’s our hotel on the left. You can pick it out by all the little red roofs of the cabanas.
Coming back in to the dock, the water was glassy smooth.
Before we headed home, we had to take one last walk down to the dock and look at the scenery again.
There are lots of crabs and hermit crabs in the sand.
what a nice place to hang out!

We were told that there are whales right out there in that water you can see from the hotel! I have already bought more Oferta Simples, and we plan to go back in August. Hopefully Haydeé’s husband can come also, and we will go out in a boat and see if we can see some whales.

It’s really nice to have such a lovely spot so close to us. Even when you are retired there are chores and daily things you do, so it’s nice to get away where there is nothing to do but enjoy yourself.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Twist

Posted on May 30, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

Weekly Photo Challenge: Twist This week, share a photo of something that says “twist” to you. It might be that perfect ice cream cone, a yummy bit of liquorice, or something unexpected that surprised, shocked, or startled you.

I didn’t have to think too hard about this one! There is a new and unique building in Panama City which came to mind immediately.

Taken in October 2012 as I was traveling through Panama City on the way to my new home.

Taken in October 2012 as I was traveling through Panama City on the way to my new home.

 

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Taken on a very recent trip to Panama City, showing the building in the context of the busy city.

 

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Javier, the Rambala Caretaker and Nature Guide

Posted on May 29, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

We visited the Rambala Jungle Lodge last December just before Mother’s Day. At that visit Javier helped us get our things to our cabanas and then took off so I didn’t see much of him. He and a couple friends have a years old tradition of serenading every mother in town for the occasion, so he was anxious to get on his way. I did, however, get to see and explore his house a bit which I posted about in this blog post. I had never seen such a basic and simple house up close and found it extremely interesting.

On this visit, the house is basically unchanged. But, this time I was able to talk with Javier quite a bit and learn more about his life. I’m not sure how old he is but he has three children in their 20’s, one grandchild and another on the way. He is from Nicaragua where he worked as a tour guide taking people around in carts drawn by water buffalo. Next, he moved to Costa Rica where he was also a tour guide, this time leading horseback rides. From there, he came to Panama. The people in Costa Rica want him back but he is very happy where he is now and wants to stay.

Javier has a nice block house in town with electricity and indoor plumbing. He says he goes there to do his laundry and watch TV – documentaries on nature and wildlife. But, it is noisy in town – neighbors, babies, dogs, etc. He is happier at Rambala. He has his radio and his reading material (again, nature and wildlife), and loves the quiet and being so close to nature. He says he often goes out hiking at night just to see the different animals that come out after dark. His passion has always been the outdoors and wildlife, and he loves sharing this interest with others.

This is the “front room” and the sleeping loft is above. (note the steps in the log to get up there)
This is the kitchen. There is a gas burner and shelves on the other side.
The view from the back
View from the side. The window opening is the sink / washing up area. The guy in the hammock was there to do some cutting and trimming, and was apparently waiting for Javier to return and give him instructions.

I only took a few photos this time since Javier was on site and I didn’t want to be a pest. Check the previous post though for many more photos. I should have asked him what he eats and what he cooks. This time, like last time, there didn’t seem to be any food around that I could see. It certainly doesn’t look like my kitchen where you could probably live for a month if you had to!

None of it looks like my house. He has a roof that protects from the elements. He has a water hose, gas for cooking, and an outhouse. This, and his radio and reading materials, and the jungle, and he’s happy. Of all the things I’ve seen so far in Panama, Javier and his house have give me the most to think about. I’ve passed many similar homes on drives around, but I’ve never had the opportunity to get to know the people or look at the homes up close so for me, this was a big part of my experience at Rambala.

As aside – I have to mention too that the people in the countryside are amazingly strong. The lodge and cabanas are all built with wood from trees that have died and fallen naturally in the jungle. The lumber was cut on site and carried out by hand. It was challenging for me to hike around out there, and I know how heavy that wood is. I cannot imagine carrying lumber through the jungle! I saw a little of this when I saw the guys carrying lumber on their shoulders as we were hiking out of the area.

I also got to feel Javier’s strength first hand when I was making my way up a steep and slippery spot and lost my footing. He grabbed my hand and hauled me up about 4 feet like it was nothing, and I’m a lot heaver than he is.

Javier is in his element!

Javier is in his element!

He may not very big but he’s tough, and smart, and has a passion for life, and a kind heart. I don’t think I could live that kind of minimalist outdoor life myself but I can certainly respect those who do. “The rich are prisoners and the poor are free”. I’m not sure where I heard that but there is truth in it. We strive for so much but where does it really get us?

Thanks Javier for sharing yourself, your story, and your time in the jungle with all of us.

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Hiking at Rambala

Posted on May 29, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

One morning a small group of us set off for a hike in the jungle, led by the caretaker and hiking guide Javier. He has made a path up behind the main grounds of the Rambala Jungle Lodge that leads through the jungle and up to the top of the hill. I thought this was a wonderful experience guided by someone who not only has a lot of knowledge, but a great love for the jungle and everything that lives there. Again, photos can only give you the barest idea of what it really feels like to be out there.

Javier is ready for us to get going.
We spot a helicopter damselfly. It’s beautiful on the leaf, but when it flies it is a whirring of blue and black wings (thus its name). They are quite large and very beautiful!
Javier is in his element!
These rocks are so huge we made Brenda stand in front of them for some perspective.
Whoa, look, we found something!
One of many beautiful ferns.
No hike of mine would be complete without a cool bug on a leaf.
Eric and Javier check the water lines while Mariah stops for a drink of water.
It’s hard for a photo to convey the untouched beauty and wildness of this place, or the enormity of some of the trees.
Another look at the stream running through the area.
The bumpy vine looking thing is monkey ladder. Javier said it is good for the kidneys and is sold for a high price for medicinal purposes.
Just a pretty purple palm frond.
The story is that a previous owner planted this bamboo high in the jungle, and now it has turned into a massive clump of beautiful bamboo.
We make it up to the top and view the valleys and meadows below.
We can see the neighbors cows on the other side of the hill.
One of the Rambala horses, Negro, comes up to greet Javier.
Javier thumps on a fence post where the bullet ants live. You do NOT want to get bit by one of these.

We probably spent a couple hours hiking, a lot of it climbing up muddy, rocky paths. I am so glad for my good hiking shoes and the hours on the bicycle. My legs held up fine. My poor old knees weren’t so happy for a couple days but nothing major.

I’m so lucky to be here. I could have stayed in the US and worked another 10+ years. By then I probably couldn’t do these things. I also wouldn’t have met Javier, who will be the subject of my next post.

And to close, check out the leaf cutter ants at work. Apologies for the video quality. I had my Nikon which is not made for video work. The first bit is them climbing down a vine, then they are going through the leaves, and in the last bit they are heading up the other side by the path.

Posted in Exploring Panama, insects, Panama, photography, travel, wildlife | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments

Last Stop, Rambala

Posted on May 28, 2014 by Kris Cunningham

Our last stop in our travels was the Rambala Jungle Lodge. We had been here before so I knew what it was like, and I was really looking forward to going there again.

Jungle Lodge doesn’t fully explain what this place is about. I probably can’t either. It is one of those things you have to experience. The place is near Rambala, a town on the north side of Panama in Bocas del Toro Province. If you are high up enough you can see the water of Chiriqui Grande.

Eric and Linda (the owners) have carved a bit of living space out of the jungle. There are cabanas so you have a roof over your head and mosquito nets to keep out unwanted night visitors, but otherwise you are literally in the jungle. There is no electricity. Water is from the mountain stream. Anything else must be carried in. It is one thing to experience Panama from a city or block house, and quite another to be out with nature in the big outdoors.

The view from the front of our cabana.
Our bed, more or less outdoors except for the roof.
The bathroom. That is the sink straight ahead. There is a composting toilet on the right. (works great – odor free)
The outdoor shower is on the right.
You can tell we’ve been out and about.

The grounds are beautiful, and it was interesting to see different flowers and plants this time. (our last visit was in December). Here’s are some photos, in no particular order.

This is only one variety of many heliconia that are growing on the property.
That’s our cabana up there.
I don’t know what these were but they were sure pretty.
A pathway up the hill.
We had fun swimming one afternoon! The water was pretty chilly but if you are hot it feels very good.
There is the water of Chiriqui Grande in the distance.
My camera tended to fog up in the morning sun after being cooled in the night air.
One the way home, hiking out back to the car.

Of course there are always interesting bugs and critters!

There were four tree sloths, two of them with babies.
I was trying to photograph a spider and found this unique bug under the lodge.
A Jesus Lizard, a different variety than we have near my house.
These Jesus Lizards are great because they freeze when disturbed, making them great photo subjects.
Some others found the poison dart frog and brought it back for the rest of us to see. When he was let go he was nice enough to pose for a moment before he hopped off into the undergrowth.
A golden orb spider, a very large spider. This one wasn’t polite enough to hang out where he was easy to photograph, or where the light would hit the web (which is supposed to be gold in the sunlight) but he was still a very cool spider.
A beautiful flag bug hanging out on the passion vine.
Another tree sloth in the tree.
I got lucky one morning and caught this sloth in the tree with the light hitting her (we know it’s a her because she is one of the moms)
Two different orchid bees. Eric put the paper towel out with a scent they like to attract them. He says they collect the scents and store them on their back legs so they will smell good enough to attract a female.
This orchid bee is quite large and very beautiful.
I saw this big critter hanging out on our door frame one morning.
A very lucky shot! The sloth stretched her front legs overhead (or underhead since she is upside down) just long enough to get a good shot of the baby hanging on to her belly.

Eric and Linda are becoming a wealth of information on the wildlife in the area, and love to point out everything they find. They said they have also been visited by a number of research scientists who want to study wildlife. One time they had a whole crowd who spent all night in the jungle looking for a particular frog! I know I have barely scratched the surface of what can be seen in their jungle.

Javier with the horse assigned the job of carrying our packs out to the car.
As we were walking out, two indians came along carrying long pieces of lumber like they were nothing!
Down the road, there is a herd of water buffalo.

I’ll leave you with some random videos I took while experimenting with my iPad. The next post will be some untouched jungle as we go hiking up the hill!

Posted in Exploring Panama, Flowers, insects, Panama, travel, wildlife | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments