On The Road, Day #1

Today we biked from David to Cuidad Neily, Costa Rica which according to my bike computer was 50.15 miles. We got an early start which was really necessary because as the day goes on it gets hotter. It was a day of blue skies and bright sun so no coolness today.

We we said goodbye to some friends on the way out of town, and stopped in Boqueron for a rest with our friend Richard who had come down to see us. We pedaled on knowing we would continue climbing until we reached Concepcion, but unfortunately the climbing continued well past there. Finally though we headed back down and were able to enjoy some miles of mostly downhills.

We stopped at the checkpoint where most of the cars were being waved though, but the guard asked for our IDs before wishing us well and waving us on. The border crossing was unbelievably easy. We were sent to the luggage inspection room which was great because we had to wait for awhile in the cool air conditioning. Then the guy got to us he asked if we had any children in those bags, and when we said no he laughed, wished us well, and waved us along.

The gal at the window who sent us to inspection now took our photos, stamped our passports and we were done. There was no line when we arrived and only a few people when we returned so we were through there in minutes. The Costa Rica side was equally easy. Fill out the paper, take it to the window, stamp passports, and done. She didn’t even ask us one question and here too, there was no line.

From here we pedaled down the road a bit to get away from the trucks and traffic, found a shady spot under a tree, and had some lunch.

Our friend Karen had given us pancakes rolled around sausage and eggs. Very yummy!

Our friend Karen had given us pancakes rolled around sausage and eggs. Very yummy!

Elza, my biking partner, is an expert at finding treats along the road – mangoes, oranges, lemons, and coconuts.

Now, we figured we had maybe 15 miles to Cuidad Neily, which seemed a reasonable goal. It was very hot in the sun but a lot of the way was easy downhill riding so it wasn’t long before we reached town. We had heard the bomberos (firemen) are good people to stay with, so we asked around until we found them. They didn’t have a dormitory with a bed but we’re happy to let us have an empty room. This was great! We had mattresses so all we needed was floor space and it was wonderful to have a shower, electricity, and a safe place to stay.

Even though we also have use of the kitchen here, after riding in the heat I only wanted something cold. We headed out and found the chip for my iPad that is allowing me to post this, and then we went to the supermarket for some tuna, tomatoes, bananas, and a green pepper, oh and some limon flavored mayonnaise. We made a great tuna salad with some orange juice from one of the found fruits, and it was excellent. Then it’s time to check emails and relax before calling it a night.

We plan to get up early tomorrow and set out for another day of biking through this beautiful country! I’ll leave you with a couple photos of some of the scenery we saw today.

 

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On The Road Again

Tomorrow I start a new adventure and new version of “on the road”. I will be starting my first extended bicycle tour with Elza of Generosity on Wheels, my cycling partner.

We plan to ride along the Pacific coast of Costa Rica and then up to San Jose. From there we will make our way to Nicaragua to see friends on Ometepe Island. After that, who knows. I am not sure how it will go until I am out there. Maybe I will wear out in three days and want to come home. Maybe I will love it and want to travel on. We shall see.

I will only take my tablet so the blogging won’t be as fancy. I am looking forward to cycling through the beautiful country of Costa Rica though, and being able to look and stop anywhere we choose. I think it’s going to be amazing.

A lot of people think I am crazy for doing this. Maybe I am, but I have been very interesting in bicycle touring ever since I heard about it. The day will come when I am no longer able to do things like this. I don’t want to look back and regret the things I didn’t do and the opportunities I let slip by. I feel like I am well prepared as I can be, we will travel through populated areas so help will be nearby, and we will keep our goals sensible. I think it will all work out.

So, tomorrow, I will be peddling down the road. No, Joel isn’t coming with me on this one. He has other things he enjoys doing more so he will be keeping it together on the home front, playing his guitar, and following me on line.

See you from the road!

 

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Visiting a High School

Last week was English week at the high school where my friend teaches. We were invited to judge the singing and dancing competitions. It was a really fun afternoon and we saw a lot of amazing students!

The first event was a modeling event, something I hadn’t seen at the school before. The students were doing it for the experience and there was no judging. I was surprised to see more boys than girls participating, and the boys got a lot of cheers, more than the girls!

Joel was asked to sing a song, so they brought him up next. It was really fun to see the enthusiastic response from the students!

The singing competition was next and soon got under way. I was supposed to be paying attention and rating the students on a number of aspects of their performances, so I didn’t take many photos or videos. Here is just a little bit of a couple singers I liked.

In the middle of the singing competition they took a break to watch a performance of a dance group that was really excellent.

Then, it was back to finish the singing competition.

The final thing was the dance competition. I was very impressed and really enjoyed watching the dancers, and I did take a bit of video of each group. The students has obviously worked very hard on their performances! The group at the end of the video was the winner.

This was only one of the things that happened this day, my birthday. When I returned home my cycling partner had arrived. I had to dash off to art class though so conversation waited until I returned home again. I also had a lot of phone calls, emails, and Facebook messages. How wonderful to have so many people think of me on my birthday! And if all this wasn’t enough, I checked my bank account and my social security money had arrived early.

There will be a lot more about my cycling partner and our upcoming travel plans, so I will be writing more about that soon.

 

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A Monk in the Mountains, and Communication

I had a very interesting time a couple weeks ago. Lama Lobsang Samten, a Buddhist Tibetan monk was visiting the mountains of Chiriqui. If I understood correctly, he has been visiting Costa Rica every year and when friends here learned that he was going to be nearby, they invited him to spend a few days in Panama.

Not only was it interesting to meet this wonderful man, it was interesting to watch the communication. He is Tibetan and grew up speaking a language very different from ours. Then, he ended up in Montreal where he speaks French on a daily basis, and he has also learned some English though he admitted it was pretty rusty. Now he was in Panama speaking to a group of people some of whom spoke only Spanish, and others who spoke only English.

A lovely teaching and meditation space had been prepared.

A lovely teaching and meditation space had been prepared.

One can get by with pointing and gesturing, but when it comes to more complex things there is no substitute for a common language. Lama Samten spoke English well enough to be understood, and a bilingual student translated into Spanish. Sometimes there were questions and he needed his traveling companion (who spoke French, English, and Spanish) to explain something to him in French. She would explain his answer in English, and then it was translated into Spanish so everyone could understand. I found it fascinating to watch this process of communication. I think it’s unfortunate that in the US, learning languages isn’t given more importance. When you can talk with each other it opens up whole worlds of communication and understanding.

The teachings were basically about happiness, and how Buddhist philosophy and meditation can help you live a happy life. Lama Samten is a wonderful example. He escaped Tibet as a teenager when the Chinese came in, surviving a very perilous two month walk through the Himalayas to reach India. In spite of this very difficult time and being displaced from his homeland, he radiates happiness and kindness. His very presence lights up a room.

I was introduced to the Kadampa tradition in Florida and the founding monk is also a Tibetan refugee. The organization has grown so large that he teaches to groups at festivals, and very few have an opportunity to speak to him in person. This group, however, was probably 20-25 people. There were times for questions and answers, and also a social time later where I spent quite a bit of time talking with Lama Samten. He loves to laugh, joke, share, and connect with others. His happy attitude is so contagious! He really is a special person.

Smiles and happiness!

Smiles and happiness!

Word is that he is going to come back next year and if at all possible, I am certainly going to be there.

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A Visit to the Farm, after Navigating Around the Protests

Yesterday I made a visit to the finca (farm). My friend Cedo is in the USA visiting family, and it was payday for the caretaker. After meeting the mechanic about my misbehaving car (a disappeared alternator belt) a couple friends and I set out for Cuesta de Piedra.

We drove down the highway past Boquerón, towards the bridge before Concepcion, and found traffic at a standstill and the road blocked by protests. The Barro Blanco Dam has been under construction for some time and is almost completed. The indigenous people have not been happy about the project and continue to oppose it, saying it will damage their land and displace their people. (There is a news article HERE).

I am happy this is a country where people can express themselves. I wasn’t so happy yesterday to have my day complicated, but I wasn’t nearly as troubled as a lot of people trying to do their work and get goods where they needed to go.

I was expecting the mechanic to contact me around lunch time, so I didn’t have time to backtrack and take another route. I returned to David. It turns out the car also needed a new alternator and wouldn’t be ready for another day, so Joel and I set out after lunch to take the route through Potrerillos and across to Cuesta del Piedra. It is a beautiful drive though some parts have steep uphills and downhills on very curvy roads, and I was thankful Joel was doing the driving. But, at least, we did have another route to get where we needed to be. There are many areas where the PanAmerican Highway is the only way to get through, like in San Felix where there were more protests.

We made it to the farm with no problems. I am taking a drawing and painting class so I needed to be back by 4PM and this didn’t leave any time for lingering, but I did meet with the caretaker and took a quick tour with my camera. A picture is worth a thousand words and I know Cedo misses her farm and her animals, so here are some pictures.

I also visited the pigs. The caretaker said there had been problems and lost piglets from diarrhea. When I got home I called Cedo’s son who said he had talked with the caretaker and medicine was on its way.

That’s a lot of piglets! There were more adults in the enclosure behind the pig house too.

Cedo, aquí están sus animales. Ellos te extrañan y estará encantado de verte. Yo también, te extraño mucho y te ver en unos pocos días!

It was a hectic day between the car and complications getting to the farm, but it was also a beautiful day. Everything is very lush and green and the drive was gorgeous!

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Waterfall Hostel

There is a new hostel a bit north of David on the northbound road towards Boquete. We stopped by the other day and Peter, the owner, gave us a nice tour. It’s in a really pretty spot by a river and waterfall.

First we looked at a few of the rooms. Peter has been working hard sprucing up the place and making any necessary repairs. There are a variety of options and sizes for rooms, and the prices are reasonable.

The grounds are really nice. There is a lot of open, green space, and it feels relaxing. There is a restaurant on site, a social area with a pool table and other activities, and two swimming pools with a sitting area between them.

The best part, I think, is the river and the waterfall. I had driven by this place and seen people swimming and playing in the river, but it’s even more beautiful from below.

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This is also a great spot for a day trip or a party. It’s $1/day ($.50 for kids) and you can relax, use the pools, swim in the river, and there is the restaurant on site for drinks and food if needed.

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One of these warm days I need to go enjoy this spot for a few hours!

For more information, visit the Waterfall Hostel Website

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The Municipal Market

There is a big municipal market on the south side of town, and it is interesting to see how it has grown. I first visited it when it was quite new and wrote a post about it HERE. At that time where was a lot of empty space and not enough shops to even begin to fill it up. I went back again recently and found many more shops, and also quite a few restaurants in the food court. It was middle of the day and definitely not overrun with customers but there were some people shopping and others eating in the food court.

Click on any of the photos below to see a larger version.

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When you walk through the doors, in front of you are many produce markets along the center aisle. They all seem quite similar and I wonder how they all stay in business. It seems like most people would check the first few markets, and the ones farther down the aisle wouldn’t get much business.

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To the left are two new seafood markets, and there is another farther down on the left aisle. The fish looked fresh and the prices good. They were higher than buying directly from the fishermen in Pedregal, but lower than prices I’ve seen in the supermarkets. Last week I bought some amberjack from the guy on the left. It came in prepackaged bags, boneless fillets, frozen, for $4.70/lb and it was delicious. This week I bought tuna from the stop on the right, $3.50/lb, boneless fillets, and it was also excellent. That is their price list in the photo. (Atun = tuna). I remember what it cost in the US so we rarely bought it. It’s a real treat to have this great seafood anytime we want.

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This is the fish market farther down with their price list. Fish heads, eewww!! Those are pargo, or red snapper, and you can make great soup. When I buy a whole fish I always ask for the head and bones for soup. My fish favorite soup is made with yuca and grated plantains.

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On the opposite outside aisle I found this market with all sorts of lunch meats, cold cuts, and sausage / hot dogs. In Panama they have many varieties of things that look like hot dogs or sausages.

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To the right of the front door across from the seafood shops is this meat market with beef and pork. That’s his price list for beef. The left side is price per pound and the right is price per kilo. I bought some pork ribs from him. They are usually sold with the slab of ribs covered with the part that is a sheet of meat with fat, not the healthiest thing around but it sure is good! Unfortunately this meat was so salty I couldn’t eat it. Now I know to ask if a meat has been salted. We soaked it in water a while though and added it to split pea soup, and it was great in that.

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There was also a chicken market on the right outside aisle. The prices looked good and the chicken looked fresh. Pechuga is breast, muslo is thigh, and alas is wings.

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This is the price list from one of the produce markets. I don’t see much that is $1/pound. The only $1 are a pineapple or a bunch of culantro (a popular herb). Oh, I also see name (a root vegetable) and peppers for $1/pound.

Now lets go back to the food court area…

Many of the produce vendors are people who used to be on the streets downtown. I think downtown is probably more convenient for many people and evidence for that is the multitude of vendors still on the streets, especially near the bus terminal. I can see stopping to pick up something for dinner as you go to catch your bus home. But, hopefully there will be enough business to keep the municipal market vendors in business, and I’m sure it helps to have the meat and fish shops, and the food court. It is also well air conditioned which is probably better for the produce than sitting out in the heat all day. So we’ll see how it goes.

 

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A Beautiful Full Moon

The night before the full moon was perfect. A beautiful, bright moon rose behind the trees in a clear sky with just enough clouds to make it interesting.

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It was so pretty that I had to go out in front of the house for a clearer view.

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I love being outside and spend a lot of time on the terrace. I enjoy the daytime,  and also some lovely nighttime sights like this. Lately we have also been enjoying a frog, and sometimes two frogs that come to the birdbaths at night and chirp for us.

(Turn up your sound)

It is not all peace and tranquility in the land, however. Last night we had an insane rain storm! It can rain here like you would not believe, but last night seemed even more intense than the usual big downpours. Lightning was flashing, thunder was crashing, and crazy amounts of water were raining down on us.

The neighbor’s yard looked like a lake.

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Across the street there was a river in that neighbor’s yard, and the street was full of water.

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Just when it seemed like it was going to slow down, another wave would come through and continue the pounding. The electricity eventually went off. As it got dark, we lit more candles and watched the storm. After a couple hours the electricity came back just as a huge thunderclap cracked overhead and about made us about jump out of our skins.

The rain continued well into the evening but like all things, nothing lasts forever. By the time we were ready for bed peace had returned to the skies and to the neighborhood. This morning was a beautiful sunny day with blue skies and a light breeze. Of course that never lasts forever either and the rains returned in the late afternoon. But, today, it was just a gentle rain that cleared up by mid-evening. And, so it goes in the rainy season when everything is lush and green in Panama, and usually rain soaked by evening.

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A Blue Bug

We were hunting for mangoes one day when I saw what looked like a very large wasp.

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It was very busy scurrying around in the leaves, opening and closing its wings.

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When the sun caught the wings there will be this glimpse of intense blue and purple!

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It was a very busy and active bug which made it very hard to photograph. But, I took a lot of photos and a few of them were acceptable.

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I’ve never seen anything quite like this, but that is how it is in Panama. There always seems to be something new and interesting and with so many bugs here, often it is a new and beautiful bug!

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Turn the Faucet for Water

This is what we are used to, but here in Panama it doesn’t always work like that. Some areas have more problems than others, but it seems no one is immune to times without water. We have learned to be prepared so we have gallons in each bathroom, more in the kitchen, and still more in the laundry room. We could get by for days and that doesn’t count the buckets to catch rainwater, or the little swimming pool that we still haven’t drained.

But, it is a bit inconvenient when the water doesn’t flow. Monday we woke up to no water. No one seems to know why it went out. It didn’t come back until late in the day on Tuesday which is by far the longest it has ever been out. We had laundry piled up ready to wash on Monday. Bathing was by bucket and washcloth. By Monday night the dishes were piled up so I broke down and washed them with some stored water. Then, just to make it more interesting, on Monday night the power went out for an hour or so. I learned later that a snake had gotten into a transformer and took out a main distribution line which affected David and much of the surrounding area.

These incidents make you think about how much you take for granted. I get up every day and expect the power to be on, the internet to be working, and water to come out of the tap. How much of the world’s population never has internet, or even electricity? How many people have to carry every bit of their water from somewhere else? There are many people right here in Panama who go to a river to bathe and wash clothes.

There is nothing like being without to make you really appreciate something! It was such a joy to stand under the shower, and so much easier to wash dishes and clean the kitchen. On Wednesday we did three loads of laundry by simply putting them in the machine. Panama is working hard to upgrade the water systems and bring potable water to every citizen. But, it doesn’t hurt to be reminded now and then how fortunate we are to have our services.

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