Pedasi Beaches

Posted on February 25, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

The southern part of the Azuero Peninsula of Panama is known for the beautiful beaches. Since I was down there visiting my good friend and fellow blogger,  we decided to pick up another friend and blogger and enjoy a visit to some of the beaches in the area. It was a most enjoyable morning with great company, and the scenery was so beautiful. I had a hard time deciding on a reasonable number of pictures to share because I have so many that I like.

The sun sparkles off the water and the lone fisherman.
The sky was so blue and I love the waves crashing against the rocks.
The sand is so interesting with the black sand showing through the brown in pretty patterns.
Some large rocky areas along the beach
A flock of seagulls hangs out on the wet sand.
This little cove was on the other side of the beach.
More seagulls, blue sky, and blue sand

It was a short but wonderful visit to Pedasi, and I was happy to see all of my friends. I thought Allison was going to be away but her plans were delayed by a day, so I got to visit with her and her family on Friday evening. She has recently moved to Pedasi with her husband and two daughters. Look for “the Panama Pause” if you are on Facebook. It is interesting to read about their lives with school age children, and their sweet dog Finny.

More sparkling sun on the water.
Karen surveys the scene with her bare feet in the wet sand.
If there is wet sand with pretty reflections, I’ll have my camera out.
A lone seagull stands on the wet sand.
Cliffs, a seagull, reflections, and interesting black sand patterns. It has it all! 😀
Everyone face East! Notice how many pelicans are fishing in the distance.
I never saw so many pelicans in one place! There must have been some good fishing that morning.

Saturday afternoon after our beaches outing, we got a bite of lunch and went back to the house to relax and chat. Later in the afternoon I caught up with my friends and other fellow blogger Al and Shelly. They have a growing business offering house and pet sitting, so if you need someone give them a shout. His blog is also a lot of fun, often with a humorous take on some of the things that go on in Panama.

The fisherman and a friend, a couple of the very few people we saw out on the beaches on a Saturday morning.
Look how many pelicans are in the water, not counting a lot more that are in the air.
The fishing must be good here.
There are interesting rocks in some areas.
Continue facing East!
My friends walking on the beach
Another flock of seagulls

You just never know what will happen when you start writing a blog! Because of my blog and theirs, I have all the good friends mentioned in this post, all living in the same area, and all writing interesting stories about their unique and different lives in Pedasi.

More pelicans. They were everywhere!
I’m not sure what these birds are. Maybe skimmers? There isn’t anything in my bird books that looks quite like them.
There are oysters on the rocks. It is easiest to pry off the top shell and get the meat, and leave the bottom shell behind where it is embedded in the rock.
This could be a rock oyster, good luck for someone hunting for a treat.
More waves and pelicans
Some crab has been cleaning his house
A little crab runs down the sand.
As I headed out in the evening sun, there was this herd of cows at the end of the street, including the big handsome bull.

This is the story of my visit to Pedasi (or perhaps just an excuse to post photos :D), but I’m sure it won’t be the last visit with my good friends, nor the last photos of this beautiful area. As you all know from my last post my friends took me to Chitre the next morning where I caught buses back to David. I had a front seat on the bus from Santiago to David, so the next post will be about the construction and road conditions on the Pan-American Highway.

Posted in Exploring Panama, Panama, photography | Tagged , , , , , , , | 22 Comments

Mi Amiga y Su Bici

Posted on February 24, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

This is by my good friend who met me outside of town and got some photos of me arriving.

indacampo's avatarIn Da Campo

My friend Kris came for a visit over the weekend in a non traditional kind of way, traveling part of the way on her bicicleta.  I rode out to meet her at the edge of town and here is her arrival.  You can read her first post about her trip here.  We were so very glad to see her arrive safely even if it was for a short time…in the campo.

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A Bike Tour to Pedasi

Posted on February 24, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

I just returned from my first out of town bike tour to Pedasi, where I visited good friends and a fellow blogger.

Actually, I started on the bus. The very busy Pan-American Highway is under construction between David and Santiago and it is not safe for a cyclist. I took a bus from David to La Divisa (about 20 miles east of Santiago at the road heading south).

There is a great new road with wide shoulders that make perfect bike lanes. Here they were getting ready to harvest sugar cane.
The birds were very interested in the fields that had been recently harvested.
Sugar cane blowing in the wind.
Interesting old tree
These shrines can been seen occasionally all over Panama, memorials to people who have died in traffic accidents.
With the planting of trees the environment is paid and with this, guarantees the life on the earth’s system (or something like that)
These living fences were flowering
One of the few places where I saw water. Any small streams were totally dry, and the rivers were low.
The road is not a highway. Do not exceed the indicated speeds along the way. Remember who waits for you at home. (these signs can also be seen all over Panama, and I like the last line)
One of my ancestors was a bunny.
More golden grass and rolling hills as i get close to Chitre.

My goal the first day was to bike to Chitre (about 25 miles). I got an early start but the 4 hour bus ride landed me at my starting point around noon, so I was biking in the hottest part of the day. The route started out fairly flat but I encountered more and more hills the closer I came to Chitre. By the time I arrived I was tired, sweaty, and thirsty in spite of drinking almost all of my 5 bottles of water. But, I made it and overall, it was a very good ride.

It was hot in Chitre and the hostel was downtown with a lot of street noise. It was also on the second floor so I was very thankful for a young Irish guy who carried my heavy bike upstairs. The good part was I had booked a bunk bed but I was the only one in the room, and the shower was heavenly!

Coming in to Chitre under a bright blue sky and blazing sun.
They have a Riba Smith there, an upscale new supermarket that I’ve heard about from the Panama City people.
The view of the church from the hostel balcony.
After I showered and rested a bit, I set out in search of a grocery store.
As I returned the sun was setting and the light was really pretty.

The city noises woke me about 5AM, so I actually had to wait for it to get light enough to set off for my next leg of the trip. This day my goal was to make it to Pedasi, about a 50 miles.

I left Chitre and rode into Los Santos in the early morning light.
More golden grass and rolling hills
This area may look relatively flat on a map, but in reality it is not flat at all.
More hills, golden grass, and cows.
Most of the cows seemed as interested in me as I was in them.
Milk cans waiting for pickup were a frequent sight.
After I left Las Tablas the road became two lane with gravel shoulders. There was less traffic though and the drivers were very considerate.
Getting close!

I was very happy with this ride! There were more hills than I expected, some of them challenging. And, even with my early start it didn’t take long to get hot. But, I arrived in Las Tablas (about half way) feeling better than expected so I biked through and stopped for lunch a bit south of town. I wasn’t especially hungry but I ate anyway, and drank two pitchers of water.

I set out after lunch feeling surprisingly refreshed and energetic, and I enjoyed the two lane, quieter, more scenic road. By the time I got close to Pedasi though I was feeling a bit wilted from the heat and the hills. Imagine my delighted surprise when I saw my friend waiting for me on the edge of town to welcome me and ride in together!

It was a great visit in Pedasi. I stayed with my good friends and was able to see many other friends as well. I’ll post more about that later with photos of the area beaches.

On Sunday I was ready to head home but how? It was very windy and I would have been biking over all those hills again, but this time in a strong headwind. Could I make it to Chitre for another night in the noisy downtown hostel? And, when I reached La Divasa how long would I be standing on the highway hoping for a bus with room for both me and my bike? Would I have to bike on to Santiago on the busy highway? My friends convinced me to take them up on their offer of a ride to Chitre where I could catch buses to Santiago and then David.

This turned out to be a very good decision. In Chitre I had to wait for three buses until one arrived with a roof rack for the bike. Then, in Santiago I had to wait about 1 1/2 hour for another bus with a roof rack. But, I made it back without incident (except for a dent in my bike rack).

The bus from Chitre arrives with six bikes on top!
Arriving in David my bike was the only one up there with the pile of luggage.

I learned a lot from my first bike trip. First, and most important, I am up to the riding! I accomplished a 49 mile ride with hills without a problem, and I felt fine and ready to ride again the next day. Biking for a few hours alone is nice, but biking for a couple days alone wasn’t as enjoyable. I would prefer a companion on longer trips. And, a companion would also help if I need someone to watch the bike, or hold it while I rearrange something. (My loaded bike is too heavy for the kick stand.)

What now? I’m ready to plan a longer trip, maybe to Costa Rica or Nicaragua but I’d rather go with an experience bicycle tourist. I don’t find bus travel as enjoyable, especially with a bike so I’d rather head west. Meanwhile I’ll continue biking around here, and working on more strength for the hills. I must make it to Boquete one of these days!

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Scale

Posted on February 17, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

Weekly Photo Challenge: Scale

Some of the trees here in Panama are massive, on a scale that is unusual in the US. We were out biking yesterday and took a break in the shade of this one.

The tangles and twists of the branches are amazing!

The tangles and twists of the branches are amazing!

More tangles and aerial roots

More tangles and aerial roots

You can get an idea of the scale of this beautiful tree when you see my friend and our bicycles below.

You can get an idea of the scale of this beautiful tree when you see my friend and our bicycles below.

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Rich? Poor? Perceptions of Money

Posted on February 12, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

We are very rich in the things that matter – family, friends, happiness, a good life, and having what we need. But, this post is about money.

We are in an interesting situation here. We are from the USA but there, we are considered poor, not poverty level but close to it. We are too poor to owe taxes. I am poor enough to have subsidized health insurance. We are poor enough to not want to admit to our meager income.

We could not live in the USA without working. To retire there would mean a large drop in our income, and we would have to give up a lot just to survive. And, even if we were willing to work longer, what if one or both of us was unable to work? We knew we needed to find an alternative and that led us here to Panama.

We live in Panama now where we have more money than many of our friends and neighbors, and probably more than a large percentage of the population. We don’t want to discuss our income because it seems like we’re too wealthy. We have enough to cover everything we need, and even some travel and other fun things.

I’ve thought about this many times and I’m actually thankful that we were forced into this move. It has been a wonderful experience beyond any expectations. If we could afford to live comfortably in the USA we probably would have missed out on all of this.

I have thought about this more recently as the deadline to sign up for Obama Care is almost upon us. I have spent most of my adult life without insurance. As an independent contractor I would have had to pay full price out of pocket and it was an impossible amount. Blue Cross actually laughed at me once when I called them for a quote (I weigh more than their height/weight charts limits – talk about a humiliating experience). Even putting me on my husband’s work policy was about equivalent to our mortgage payments. Thankfully I am healthy and have needed next to nothing over the years because a serious illness or accident would have wiped us out. But now, I have coverage for $1/month, $6250 maximum out of pocket per year (which you can run up just walking through the door in an emergency room!). I am so thankful. If I get in a jam and can make it back to the US, I can get care. Thank you Obama.

Money can’t buy happiness, but not having enough for necessities can certainly buy stress, frustration, and unhappiness.  As a home health nurse I saw plenty of that among my senior age patients. We are so lucky to be here where we have a really good life, and we also have enough money to meet our needs.

I still can hardly believe I have health insurance…

Posted in cost of living, expat, medical care, Miscellaneous, Panama | Tagged , , , , , | 51 Comments

Some Scenery and Some Critters

Posted on February 12, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

I’ve been up early a few mornings, even early enough to see the sunrise colors! This is out of character for me but I do enjoy seeing the beautiful, cool, calm morning.

The sun is starting to fade the sunrise colors.
After our house, the street leads into the jungle.
A paisano is silhouetted against the morning sky.
Another beautiful day is dawning.
The golden morning light is nice for taking photographs.
These pretty flowers are blooming in the woods.

We also had rain on Monday and Tuesday! It is dry season now so this was a welcome surprise. We really had a good downpour and soaking on Monday. Afterwards Joel grabbed the camera and got some wonderful shots.

A pair of wet Motmots shake themselves off in the tree.
I think they appreciate the return on the sun to help dry their feathers.
One of the motmots perched on the clothesline pole.
Joel got this fantastic shot of the wet motmot!
A wet paisano was also perched in the tree.
Do you see the critter in the leaves?
This is the first time we have seen this type of Jesus lizard in our area! We have the smaller brown ones, but I’ve never seen this bigger green one around here. Thank you Joel for the great shots of this interesting lizard.
The Jesus lizard and the motmot are both eyeing the compost pile. (They are called Jesus lizards because they can literally walk on water. They use their long toes to stay on the surface and run very fast across the water)

After the rain cleared up, I noticed this fantastic cloud over the neighborhood reflecting the sunset colors.

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What a nice end to a nice day – rain, birds, a new critter, and a beautiful sunset. Life is good in Panama.

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Boquete and More

Posted on February 12, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

Sunday we all set off for another day trip, this time up the Boquete side of the mountain. Since I didn’t make it all the way up on my bike trip with Jérémy, I figured he should at least have an opportunity see this well known area while he was in town. Lauren also wanted to check it out, and Cedo is always up for a day trip. Joel was at the wheel today (thank you Joel).

First we stopped at Los Molinos. This is a residential area on the way up to Boquete, and there is also a nice hotel and restaurant/bar area where expats tend to congregate for various fun activities. What interested me the most though was the view over the huge canyon. It’s hard to photograph to show the real size of the canyon but I can’t resist giving it a try.

In the rainy season there are also a number of waterfalls.
It would be fun to go walking down in the canyon someday.

After our stop there, we headed up on to Boquete. It was a beautiful day, and they had recently had the Flower and Coffee Festival so the fairgrounds were ablaze with flowers.

There is a bridge in the center of town over the river, which is a very picturesque place to see the flowers and enjoy the scenery.
The mountains in the distance were beautiful.
Jérémy checks out the scene.
The flowers were really beautiful!
Behind the fairgrounds we found these coffee plants in full bloom.

After a nice lunch at Mike’s Global, where you can always count on something good to eat, we headed home.

I have really appreciated having Jérémy here for a couple weeks! He has helped me, inspired me, gone riding with me, and taught me a lot. But all good things come to an end at some point. Tuesday morning we rode up the hill again. I stopped a bit short of Los Molinos because I was tired and slowing him down. Even with his bike fully loaded he can easily outbike me! He headed on to the Caldera Road, then across to route 10 which heads over the mountains to Bocas del Toro. (Yes, he made it! He said it was a very very difficult ride though) From there he will cross into Costa Rica, have a reunion with his family and a couple friends, and then he and his friends will be biking back through this area on their way to Colon, the ferry, and South America.

Hasta lluego
Buen viaje!
Posted in Exploring the Area, Flowers, Miscellaneous, Panama, photography | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

The Finca (the Farm), and Other Interesting Sights

Posted on February 9, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

Saturday Jérémy, Lauren (a very recently arrived new expat), Cedo, and I set off to visit the finca. I hadn’t been there in a while so I was interested to see it again. First though, we stopped in Concepción where the government sells food every Saturday. Cedo and I both bought 20 pound bags of rice ($6). They also sell beans and a variety of other food items which I need to investigate at another time.

Bags of rice are unloaded from the truck to the waiting customers below.
If there are hot and thirsty people, there will be someone to sell them a cool treat.

After the market, we stopped by the dairy cooperative so Cedo could pick up a few things like a large bag of salt for the cows, and then we headed to the finca. It was a very beautiful day. Since we had left fairly early in the morning there were few clouds and the views of Volcan Baru and the mountains were magnificent. I was driving though so I waited to take photos until after we arrived. Don’t worry, there are plenty of photos 😀

Baru peaks out from the clouds.
You usually can’t see Baru from the farm so I really enjoyed this view.
The calves are doing OK. The dark one was attacked and bitten by dogs a while back but thankfully is recovering. The dogs had killed other calves and farmers were looking for them to shoot them, but I’m not sure if the dogs were found.
Cedo checks the calves nighttime stalls.
The cows come down the path for lunch.
The bull bellowed most of the time we were there. He was in a separate field (I’m not sure why) and he was not happy about it.
Lunch time for cows.
Lets go visit the pigs!
There were piglets everywhere.
Another mom and her piglets.
These piglets are small and very new.
It’s hard to count piglets when they are all running around.
Do I look good like this?
Or, is this my better side?

By the time we were finished at the farm it was close to lunch time and I was hungry. It wasn’t too hard to talk everyone into driving on to Volcan to visit Burricos, the really good Mexican restaurant on the main street. After lunch, we went on to Cerro Punta. Jérémy probably wouldn’t have another opportunity to see this interesting area, and I am always up for a visit. After that, we visited the Jensen’s Coffee Farm on our way back through Volcan.

I never get tired of seeing the vegetable farms literally on the sides of the mountains!
The views from the coffee house at Jansen’s Coffee Farm are beautiful.
Coffee berries and beans were drying on the cement pad.
Lauren, Cedo, and Jérémy stop for a photo op.
A photo by Jérémy of us gals.
Coffee berries on a coffee plant.

We finished our day with a visit to Macho de Monte, one of my very favorite places.

Jérémy and Lauren make us nervous by checking out the edge of the canyon wall.
Then, they make their way to the point overlooking the canyon.
It is dry season so there was very little water in the stream above, so it was easier for me to also make it to the point and look down at the canyon.

This is only part of the canyon and a spot where I don’t usually go. To see a bit of the real magic of the canyon check out some posts I have written in the past like THIS one, and THIS, and THIS last one.  The last one includes some videos by my friend Ryan who actually went down into the canyon and swam in the river. Take a look because it’s really incredible.

After Macho de Monte we took the new cross road over to Dolega, the one with all the steep ups and downs and sharp curves. It would have been easier to go back to the highway but this route was way more interesting.

Veggies are cheap and delicious in Cerro Punta. I think this bag full was $5.70.
On the way home we picked up this watermelon from a guy by the side of the road in Los Algarrobas. It was SO good, one of the best I’ve had. Summer is watermelon season here and a great time to enjoy them.

This was our full Saturday. On Sunday we took off for a few more adventures so that will be coming soon.

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The Adventure Continues

Posted on February 9, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

There continues to be a lot going on around here, much of it bicycle related. We had a great young Polish couple stay with us for a couple nights, and it was so interesting to hear about their experiences and life on the road. They only go back to work to save enough for another trip, and have spent most of their adult lives on the road mainly in Europe, North, Central, South America, and the Caribbean Islands.

The bikes sit in front of their “home” while they are here. They have spent so many nights in their tent that it does indeed feel like home to them, and they said they slept wonderfully.
We cooked one night, and they treated us to this great dinner the other night – home made pizza and salad.
He is packed and ready to go again, except the for guitar which gets strapped behind the seat.
She has covers on her panniers to keep them cleaner, just a personal preference thing.
Packed up and ready to roll!

Our other cyclist friend Jérémy convinced me that I could actually bike from David to Boquete, so that was our objective on Friday. We got off to a great start! I not only made it up the hill to Los Algarrobos, but also the hill coming up to Dolega! That was a first for me. As we continued on up the constant incline, the winds got stronger with each mile. That’s hard work!

We took some rest breaks and I had my first carrot and peanut butter sandwich (which really is quite good). Jérémy kept encouraging me as we biked on, but eventually I was too tired and the winds were so strong it was hard to even walk against them. I was only 3-5 miles from my goal of the tourist center right before you go down into Boquete proper, but it just wasn’t going to happen that day. I was disappointed but also thrilled that I had gone much farther than I ever had before.

The trip down sure was something! When I faced downhill I was afraid to get on my bike with those strong wind pushing me from behind but Jérémy reassured me that it would all work out, and followed well behind just in case. It was a thrilling ride for sure! And, it did all work out. We zoomed down about 40 mph until we reached lower altitudes and the winds calmed, and then we coasted the rest of the way home. We worked for 4 hours to get as far up as we did, and the trip home only took 1 hour.

The scenery along the ride was spectacular!
The clouds looked beautiful and interesting over the distant mountains.
Misty, distant mountains
Jérémy, my always patient and kind biking partner, waits for me to catch up.
Whew! OK, no more. We made it this far.
Selfie at the turn around point.

I really think that if I try it again on a day that isn’t windy I can make it. I know Jérémy is waiting for an email with photo of me and my bike in front of the tourist center, so I will be working on it. He has been here for a more extended stay while waiting to meet his family in Costa Rica and it has been wonderful! He has been so kind and patient – teaching me, working on my bike, riding with me, encouraging me, checking my packing list, and doing anything he can to help me with my travel goals. I never would have made it that far towards Boquete by myself.  He has been equally kind to Cedo (he’s staying at her house) and she is happy as can be to have such a great guy to help her out and keep her company.

I’m happy that after Jérémy’s time in Costa Rica, he and a couple friends will be coming back through here so I’ll see him again before he heads to South America. Check out his blog HERE – http://attrapemaroue.com/  He has news and a lot of great photos, and a really cool map of his route both where he has been and where he plans to go.

This was only the beginning of a very interesting weekend so stay tuned. Other news and photos will be coming soon.

Posted in Exploring the Area, Panama, photography, travel | Tagged , , , | 12 Comments

Bikes, and New Friends, and This and That

Posted on February 4, 2015 by Kris Cunningham

I’m in one of those spells where I have been too busy living life to blog about it, and I’ve having too much fun to sit down and write! I have decided to get out there and travel on the bike and my first short trip is planned in a couple weeks. We’ve also had other bikers staying with us, and I have met some really interesting people.

One thing I like, besides riding, is being able to shop and do errands on the bike. I am loving my new equipment!

Home from the mercadido loaded with fruit and veggies. There are three pineapples in the red bag on top.
There is always beautiful scenery, and biking is a great way to enjoy it.

One of our guests was Guillermo from Argentina. He is biking from the southern tip of Argentina to Alaska, and he was a delightful visitor. He worked on my bike and taught me to change tires and adjust things, washed the dishes, did Tai Chi, had many interesting conversations on a variety of subjects and he loves music, among his many talents. He is also making a book. He stops to visit schools and talk with the children, and they write and draw pictures in his big book. I could have spent all day enjoying the many entries!

They guys in the music room.
He plays really well in spite of not having touched a guitar in two years.
Time to hit the road again.

There always seems to be some bit of scenery, even on my familiar routes that I have to photograph because it’s just so beautiful. It’s summer now which is dry season so it is interesting to see how things change. Plants and grass are more brown, but different trees are flowering and fruiting. Skies tend to be more clear and very blue, and sometimes have wonderful cloud formations as well.

This side road was so rocky I had to walk, but it was a beautiful area and I had a lovely conversation with a local farmer.
Baru is often huge, dark, and imposing against a very blue sky.

Another cyclist, Jeremy, arrived when we were gone so he ended up staying with Cedo. He is from France and has biked east from there through Russia and Asia, then through Australia, and is now biking from Alaska to Argentina. He took a short trip to New York and now he is back waiting to bike to Costa Rica for a visit with his family. After that, he will be coming through again on his way south. I think he has been on his bike for 2 1/2 years and Cedo says she is adopting him.

Jeremy and Cedo

Jeremy and Cedo

Jeremy and I have had a couple great bike excursions together. The first was the 45 mile round trip to the beach and I was thrilled to see that it was much easier this time than it had been before. I am getting more strength and endurance. The next day we biked by the airport to Pedregal, about a 25 mile round trip. Friday he thinks we are biking to Boquete. So far I haven’t managed even half of that difficult trip, so we shall see. Whatever happens though I am having fun and also learning a lot by biking with an experienced cyclist, so it’s all good.

Jeremy gets his feet wet in the Pacific waters.
The bird were having a convention.
Blue, calm, tranquil, and so beautiful.
The waves were quite calm and the wet sand was beautiful.
It was a very quiet bird convention. Maybe they also were enjoying the tranquility of the day.
On our way down to Pedregal we saw one of the new Copa flights taking off. These are great if you are flying out of Panama City because they go directly to Tucomen, the international airport. It saves you from having to travel all the way from the local airport on the other side of town, and they are more economical too. We will definitely be considering this on our next trip back to the US.

Right now, we have two young cyclists from Poland staying with us. They have been all over Europe, North, and South America. From here they are headed to Bocas del Toro where they plan to catch a boat to Jamaica.

Relaxing, chatting, and eating sweet watermelon.

Relaxing, chatting, and eating sweet watermelon. (Jeremy, on the right, had also stopped by for a chat)

Last, but hardly least, there is a gorgeous full moon. The days are hot and the sun is intense, but in the evenings it is blissful to be outside enjoying the soft, warm breezes. Life is busy, but life is good in Panama!

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